Coolangatta

Fresh off the plane from 24 hours of traveling we hop into the rental car in Brisbane and head south to Coolangatta, the southernmost town on the Gold Coast, home of the infamous triumvirate of Snapper Rocks, Greenmount Point, and Kirra. we're staying at the Outrigger Coolangatta and what from I know the Outrigger is supposedly really nice.

Well it's definitely nice but we got screwed on our room location with a crap view of the tennis courts and not the ocean. Oh well. Coolangatta is really beautiful. Directly in front of the Hotel is Greenmount Beach with Green Mount Point. The beach is massive now after the Gold Coast City Council created the Tweed River sand diversion. This sand diversion has created what is now known as the Superbank, a huge sandbar from Snapper Rocks almost all the way to Kirra Point. The Mount itself is a patch of tropical rainforest rising about 50 feet separating Greenmount from what used to be Rainbow Bay(full of sand now) and Snapper Rocks.

Really hot with the Northerly flow when we first arrive but we are to tired to really care. The next day brings on the same conditions so we buy some beer and head for the beach. Our first expedition buying beer. Was a bit perturbed to find that in Australia you can only buy booze at a licensed "bottle shop" and nowhere else. You can't just cruise up to a 7-Eleven and buy a twelver. This became glaringly apparent when we arrived on Christmas day. Not a frickin' bottle shop open anywhere. All I wanted was a coldie after traveling for so long. We must of looked like right idiots going into convenience stores asking where we could buy liquor on Christmas.

So, after finding a bottle shop I go into sticker shock. $40 Aussie for a case of beer which is like $30 American! Wow, and that's for the cheap stuff. I could go on about Aussie beer but let me just say one thing, water. All lagers and barely hopped. Kind of like beer here made by the big three actually. There were a few exception like Toohey's New which is like a Sam Adams light but most were not so hot.

We spend a pleasant morning on the beach swimming and getting way to much sun. The sun here can strip the hide off you. The water is clear and warm. Now only if the surf could cooperate. (For more on the surf click here). Nice way to start things off though. What's better than some coldies on the beach?

Next day is my 33rd birthday. It's still flat so Steph suggests we go explore up the coast a bit. I suggest Burleigh. Not only does it have a national park on the headland but is home to one of the best point breaks in the world. Well it was flat as a pancake and threatening rain so we walked up into the national park. Hiked the whole trail around the headland through the rainforest. The summit gives you a great view south to Coolangatta. Luckily we were on our way down when the sky decided to open up. We dashed into what looked to be a group of restaurants at the base of the point. Ended up in Mermaids which is pretty well known locally and had a drink. Talk about being on the sand. I'm sure during a big swell the patio gets swamped.

Seeing that one of Australia's leading exports to the US is wine we had to give wine tasting a shot. Southern Queensland is a great place to do it with the hinterland around west of the Gold Coast one of the up and coming wine growing regions in the country.

The wine country of Southern Queensland centers around Tambourine Mountain but is not limited to it. At a couple thousand feet the microclimate is a bit cooler than the surrounding area but it also gets more rain which can mean disaster around harvest. The area also boasts, as much of Queensland, rich volcanic soil. Because of the heat and humidity a lot of white varietals are grown. Chardonay, Semillion, and Verhelo are popular. Of the reds Shiraz and Merlot were grown a bit too.

Our guide Judi of Cork & Fork wine Tours was great. She definitely knew her stuff and we learned a great deal from her. The basics she told us was that the region was up and coming and that many of the wineries are finally planting their own vineyards and some major players in the industry were investing in the area. Another thing I found interesting was that most Australian wine we see in the US is considered the bottom of the barrel stuff because of the prohibitive taxes on exports, so we were in for a treat. The wines did not disappoint.

We started off at Toumbourine Mountain which had been acquired by a large Australian concern which had poured a ton of money into it. Some great whites with an unusual wooded Chardonay. Next was the Heritage Winery outlet. The actual vineyard was in the Stanthorpe area west in the Granitebelt region of Queensland. The outlet was in a beautifully restored Victorian church put on blocks and transported from Burleigh Heads. Their Rabbit Fence Red was excellent. Also tried quite a few Ports here with one a dead ringer for Kaluha. The quickly vanishing art form of Port blending is flourishing in this region. On toward Cedar Creek which was being overseen by a master of wines. Basically a Master of wine is someone who has the equivalent of PhD in the study and vinting of wine. Some excellent wines here also with the Merlot standing out. The grounds were beautiful with a large pond in the back and behind the pond an artificial cave was being constructed for of all things glow worms. Apparently glow worms are an endangered species here and the winery owner had gotten a grant from the government to save the critters.

Next on the agenda is lunch at the base of the mountain at the historic Bearded Dragon Pub. One of the last authentic outback type pubs left in Australia, which is a sad commentary on Aussie bars in general (more on this later). The proprietor of the pub is a hilarious Englishman named Mark who has a treat for us - beer tasting. Oh boy did he think he was going to have us all surprised and befuddled by his selections. Little did he know he was dealing with an expert in all things alcoholic, that's right, little ole me. Let me tell you the only thing that surprised me was that there was an aussie beer above the level of piss that actually had my taste buds going - Coopers Sparkling Ale. also deeply disappointed that for an Englishman he didn't have one ESB on tap. Enough nitpicking, it was an enjoyable time.

Our last stop was Albert River Wines which was on an old estate with the orignal buildings built in the Queensland style. By now I'm kind of buzzed and everything is beginning to taste the same. A few more ports and were off. All around a very nice smapling of wines.