surf

august 2002

» surf archives

Location Date/Time Conditions
Swami's 08/30/02
6:30 am - 8:30 am 
2 - 3' + Same west southwest swell as yesterday but seeing that it had peaked yesterday afternoon it was much more inconsistent. Still some pretty fun waves coming through on the inside and then when the tide filled in a bit more the peak was producing some good chest high walls that almost resembled real Swami's. Caught one of those towards the end of the session that was real nice that opened up for a nice gouge and then a full rail round house. Nothing epic but still pretty fun.
Swami's 08/29/02
6:30 am - 8:30 am 
2 - 3' + South swell much more west and grounded. Swami's picking it up well, although a bit on the inconsistent side, but still plenty clean and fun. Inside was real zippy and opening up for some hitties on the medium tide. The outside peak was actually breaking and some good shoulder high waves were coming through. Tide filled in and shut it down but real fun while it lasted. On the way home looked like Table Top was cranking.
Black's 08/28/02
7:00 am - 9:00 am 
2 - 3' + Swell out of the west southwest and really clean. South wind was variable but died when I arrived. No crowd for a change. Had middle peak all to myself for about an hour. Some nice wedgy little lefts good for few whacks and some really lined up rights. Tide push was really helping out but then it seemed to come in a bit too much and it started to close out. Fun while it lasted.
OB Jetty 08/26/02
7:00 am - 9:00 am 
3 - 4' some 6' A whole slew of different swell in the water. A hurricane swell, north west wind swell, and remnants of a southern hemi. Hurricane swell definitely pulsing the most with the Jetty just sucking up the energy. Only problem was that only about 20% makeable with the waves just dredging hard across the bar. No corners, just the peak bouncing off the jetty for a hope you selected the right one freight train run. The bigger sets were actually opening up but hard to get with another mad dog crowd on it, which is becoming the norm this summer with the Cliffs showing no signs of life. Was catching a few more open ones off the peak and actually caught a pretty big set that opened up for a few hitties. Was feeling pretty good I hadn't got slammed yet when I made a hesitation on a take off and pulled back to late to watch myself go straight over the falls into about 6 inches of water land on my skeg and snap it off. Was so pumped with adrenaline at the time didn't even notice that I had snapped the skeg off and cut my leg open and kept surfing wondering why my board felt a bit spongy. Finally noticed and got a nice shack in. No stitches but a pretty good laceration on the shin.
Swami's 08/25/02
7:30 am - 9:00 am 
1 - 3'+ More wind swell and what seems to be a strengthened south swell but still not hitting San Diego well at all. Some fun ones on the lower tide through way inside for a few whacks, but tide was filling in rapidly shutting it down.
Swami's 08/24/02
2:30 pm - 4:30 pm 
2 - 3' Mostly wind swell showing up. A pretty good south swell is running but not hitting the coast until north of O-side. Still some pretty zippy little waves through the inside while the tide was dropping. Caught some real funs ones at first that were opening up a bit for some whacks. Tide moved too much and pretty much killed it and struggled to get a good one in.
Ponto 08/23/02
7:00 am - 9:30 am 
2 - 3'+ South swell starting to fill in but really inconsistent. Wind swell keeping things from totally being flat between sets. Some pretty good rights coming through in between the jetties, you just had to be patient and choice was key. Some holding up nicely for mostly roundies and a few lips and other just dredging closeouts with a few of these makeable as Taylor Knox was showing the crowd. The guy is phenomenal. Why he hasn't achieved a world title is beyond me.
Missouri St. 08/20/02
7:00 am - 9:00 am 
1 - 2'+ Just another tiny pulse of south swell barely keeping it surfable. About 1' when I first paddled out and closed out but it was clean after having about 5 days of the dreaded south wind every morning. It was nice to see glassy conditions again. Tide started to push, coupled with the swell peaking, a few little right wedges were popping up here and there for a few small lips and even a few super tiny bowls. Some sets were coming through but they were just dumping. Overall pretty weak and just surfing for the exercise. Dribble on.
Newbreak 08/14/02
8:00 am - 10:00 am 
1 - 2'+ Wasn't in the mood to deal with crowds now that word was out that the swell finally hit. Headed down to the Cliffs for little solitude. Quite a few people out at Abb's but no one out at Nubes which had sets pushing through every five minutes or so. Inconsistent but no one out so no worries waiting for some nice little waves for some snaps and round houses. Had it to myself for about half an hour and then another guy paddled out who was actually a pretty cool cat originally from Florida. Tide started moving in and basically shutting it down becoming really inconsistent. Relaxing session.
Windansea 08/13/02
7:00 am - 8:30 am 
3 - 5' Windan sucking up the south swell which seemed to be peaking. Some really good lined up rights on the low tide. Crowd was thick but positioning was key. Picked off quite a few nice shoulder to head high waves that were lining up beautifully for some nice solid cutties and round houses. Tide was really starting to push and softening it up a bit but it was still pretty good when I left. About as good as Windan gets.
Zanzibar St. 08/12/02
12:00 pm - 2:00 pm 
2 - 3' Swell really not hitting San Diego well because of the pure south angle. After cruising North County and surfing piddly Tamarack, Morgan and myself ended back down in the city and checked Bird on the high tide but it was real dribbly. Decided to check the beach breaks which seemed to have a bit more size. Ended up down in Mission. Crumbly lefts that had a few pockets to hit but overall pretty soft. Beautiful day though.
Black's 08/10/02
7:00 am - 8:30 am 
1'+ Really glassy this morning but it wasn't helping out the tiny and weak surf. Barely surfable. A few short rights that would peter out after a couple of pump turns and then a few lefts that had a little face to them for a couple whacks but overall just terrible.
Reed St. 08/08/02
7:00 am - 8:30 am 
1' Clean and dribbly little wind swell that was semi surfable for about an hour until the tide came up too much. Very short rides with just barely enough face for some little whacks. Pretty pathetic but I needed to get wet after six days.
Swami's 08/02/02
7:00 am - 9:00 am 
1 - 3' Mostly just wind swell today with a tad of southern hemi. A little soft but the inside was perky enough to surf. Lots of round houses and a few lips. Nothing great but fun enough. Hard to beat Swami's for laying rail even on the smallest of days.
Bird Rock 08/01/02
11:00 am - 1:00 pm 
2 - 3' Southern hemi starting to fizzle hard. Looked at Windan, which was weird as usual, and then the beaches, which were terrible. Had to settle for small Bird that did have the odd set and at least the tide was coming in to possibly help it out. Pretty frickin inconsistent. Mostly just drop to round house. Just not enough juice. Caught a couple that had a bit of face through but mostly mush. Refused to go in until I caught a good one. This was turning into a long wait. Tide was helping the inside out and a set finally snuck through (best waves miss outside and jack on mid reef here)and lined up beautifully for a fat cuttie and full roundie to go in. Not so hot but ending on a good note.