surf

dcember 2000

» surf archives

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Blacks	12/31/00 7:30 am - 9:30 am	3 - 4'+ Inconsistent but extremely clean swell pushing through. Some real nice waves pushing through but silly crowded. Good lefts and rights randomly breaking all over. Surfed south peak for awhile but was getting frustrated in my wave selection. Had better luck don at middle where I caught some fat rights and a few snappy lefts. Ended back down at south peak with the tide coming in making most of the peaks close out but managed to get a few nice lefts before going in. Not bad, know if we could only get rid of some people...
Newbreak	12/29/00 10:30 am - 12:30 pm	2 - 4'+ Swell on the downside again. Drove up to Swami's first where it was gone so headed back tot the Cliffs for a high tide Nubes session. Me and two other guys out for about an hour and this seemed to be the last hour of the swell also. Some fun almost head high waves for the first hour and then fading fast for the next hour with more of a crowd and basically almost unridable.
Abbs	12/27/00 11:00 am - 1:00 pm	4 - 5'+ New swell just stating to show with longer period waves going way overhead. Light crowd because of the medium tide and general unawareness of new swell filling in. Basically surfing the inside all by myself. Solid sets swinging wide of the outside peak and jacking on the inside for some real smackable lefts. Decided to go in when people started clueing in and paddle out. By then every spot was lit up at the Cliffs, but after so many days straight of surf I couldn't muster up another session.
Newbreak	12/26/00 11:00 am - 1:00 pm	2 - 4' North west still pulsing out there but pretty inconsistent. Stellar conditions with zero wind and hot temperatures. Waves looking a bit slow on the medium tide but rippable. Caught some scraps on the mid reef section that were lining up pretty good and then fizzling in the channel without making a real run through the inside. Caught one wave where this kid said I threw up a huge fan, so I felt pretty flattered and stoked that my level is high enough some one would compliment me. Anyhow, waves actually got worse on the lower tide with it kind of getting slower over the reef. Weird, for so many years Nubes has been better on the lower. Must be a sand thing or maybe just the swell direction.
Rincon	12/25/00 7:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 4' Made a dash up to the Cove because I only had limited time seeing that we had to drive to San Gabriel and then back to San Diego by 4:00. Pretty fun highish tide walls pushing through the cove with a real light crowd on it. Caught a whole bunch of waves from almost the top of the cove down to the freeway that were fun chest high rippers. Gonna miss surfing this wave.
Fairgrounds/Stables	12/24/00 9:00 am - 11:30 am	2 - 4' Met a friend at the top of the top lot cause he said his neighbor surfed it the night before and it was fun. Kinda of shifty and weird with a strong offshore on it, but looked like there were some good peaks to be had and if you were lucky you would get one through to the inside section were it would line up OK. Get out and it is silly crowded and inconsistent. Some were lining up, others shutting down, and some just straight out mush. Managed to nab only about a couple decent waves in the first hour or so. The tide finally started dropping and it started to get pretty decent on the outside peak and the inside. For about a half hour nabbed a whole bunch of Church like waves through the inside that were pretty rippable and the crowd finally started to thin out a bit. Not bad after all - good thing I didn't go in when the other guys did.
Rincon	12/23/00 9:30 am - 12:30 pm	3 - 6' + Pretty solid north west swell pushing through ,but of course not as big as hyped. Pretty solid through the Cove. Not the best Rincon I have ever surfed but hey a average day here is better than many many spots. Would of been all time but there was a bit of warble in the swell making some of the waves a bit soft and the crowd was almost laughable. Caught a bunch of waves from the top of the cove all the way to the freeway that were smokers. Not real hollow but just real carvable and fast. Conditions were beautiful the whole time I was out, with just a hint of wind keeping things nice and glassy. Love this wave, but too bad everybody else for hundreds of miles around does also.
PB Point	12/17/00 7:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3' +A little more groundswell today but very inconsistent. Tide was kind of medium high all morning with not that much swell - everywhere was looking not real prime. Decided to take a chance on the point, which looked like it might get fun once the tide got higher. It really started too but unfortunately the swell decided to fizzle away once the tide started filling in. Most of waves were roundhousy and short. Paddled over to Hermo and caught two nice lefts but the crowd and inconsistency was ridiculous so paddled back to the Point and managed to finagle a half way decent wave in. Pretty lackluster but beautiful day.
OB Jetty	12/16/00 8:00 am - 10:00 am	2 - 3' Trace swell out of the north west with some wind swell creating pretty weak waves. Checked the cliffs but there wasn't a whole lot happening on the medium tide so went out at the jetty which seemed to have a few nice peelers coming through. Real fun at first with just myself surfing the corner while everyone was trying to surf the peak. Corner was peeling until the tide came up and kind of flattened everything out plus the swell was diminishing quickly so the next hour was an exercise in patience. Struggled to get one in but overall was a good session.
Reed St.	12/13/00 7:00 am - 8:00 am	1 - 2' some 3' Small wind swell creating some fun little peaks. Nice glass conditions helping things out too. Nothing spectacular but carvable in places.
Reed St.	12/10/00 8:30 am - 10:00 am	1 - 2' some 3' Trace background swell and nothing much else going on. Real fun when I first got out with the really high tide, but after it started turning around it was small closeouts.
PB Point	12/08/00 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3' Small little west pulse mixed in with some wind swell creating some fun little rippers across the point. Just a few guys out and a nice high tide for some fun little waves. Caught a real nice one in. Not too bad for almost calling it a no go.
Blacks	12/06/00 6:30 am - 7:30 am	2 - 4' Combination of swell coming in - some west and a little south pulse. South peak not too bad, although a bit on the slow side. A fish would have been perfect for these conditions because at the take off you needed that extra wide to glide in early to make the first section on a lot of these. There were some good sets coming through but inconsistent, and once again a hungry pack on it, so luck more than anything nabbed you the wave. I managed to get some fairly good ones, with one a nice overhead set. A lot were peaking nicely for a hit and then flattening out while others were freight training if you could get into them.
Swami's	12/03/00 9:30 am - 11:30 am	3 - 5' Swell came back up, not as thick or consistent as the swell on Friday, but it did have a better westerly direction making for some really nice waves. Incredibly packed but manageable after the early morning crew cleared out at Kiddie Bowl and mid peak. Cutthroat going on at the outside peak. My best waves were at the beginning of the session that were thick and lined up through the inside. Snuck out at mid peak towards the end and managed to nab a set but wasn't as good as the insiders. There were some incredibly beautiful waves breaking all the way through for the lucky few able to fight off the hungry pack on the outside. My philosophy here is that it is better to get a bunch of smaller just as good shaped waves than wait outside and battle for a bomb - it just causes frustration unless the crowd is small.
OB Jetty	12/02/00 11:30 am - 2:00 pm	2 - 3' Swell really dropped overnight from big and thick to medium sized and limp. Still a few select spots sucking up swell like OB. Almost went out at Avalanche but the winds were kind of shifting so I thought it might blow out so the Jetty it was. Light crowd and a few select lines lining up nice and wedgy while a lot were just mushing out. Fun session because of the light crowd. Got a lot of waves at first and then the consistency started dropping off with the tide. Pretty fun.
Swami's	12/01/00 6:30 am - 8:00 am	3 - 5' Swell finally here. Swami's was nice and solid. Lots of power sucking up off the reef. Tide was a little too full for the consistency of the swell but there were plenty of thick waves pushing from the outside all the way through. I tended to linger mid reef where the sneakers would either swing wide or back off and jack up inside. Caught a ton of real juicy carvable waves.