surf

december 2001

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Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Swami's	12/31/01 11:00 am - 2:00 pm	1 - 4' Swell starting to fizzle a bit but still some good sets and really clean conditions with just a hint of north wind and a little rain. Surfed the peak for a while and then moved to the inside which started to line up some real clean round house waves. Tide started dropping, wind picked up, and the crowd thickened on the inside were it became unbearable. Moved back out to the peak, which on the lower tide, started breaking pretty lined up and whackable. Caught a couple more of those and went in.
Swami's	12/29/01 8:00 am - 11:00 am	3 - 5'+ Pure torture driving back down the coast with every spot (Rincon, Little Rincon, Ventura Overhead, Church) lit up and me knowing I couldn't surf. The good thing was the swell held and it was firing. Beautifully clean swell. So clean and west Swami's was breaking on any tide even the high of 6 feet. Lining up all the way from the outside through the inside on the high and once the tide started dropping the inside started firing. Too many waves to count with pristine glass conditions.
Cayuco's Pier	12/26/01 10:00 am - 12:00 pm	2 - 4' Pretty clean conditions on the Central Coast - the only problem was finding a good wave. Not big enough for some spots while too big for others. Finally headed down to Cayucos and the pier was literally the only place breaking around for miles. Howling offshores holding up a nice right off the pier. Took me awhile to get in the groove but I caught some fun lined up waves good for a few whacks and a few tube sections. Really started coming on for a half hour before I went in. Fun but very cold with the offshores and 50 degree water - felt like I had hypothermia.
Rincon	12/25/01 8:30 am - 10:30 am	3 - 5'+ New ground swell and really clean. Paddled out at the Rivermouth on the highish tide. Nice head high walls making the connection from the Rivermouth into the Cove. Real sweet faces with some barrels to be had. Tide must of been just right for a short period of time for this to happened because once the tide started dropping the connection disappeared but the Cove then really started turning on. Caught a bunch of real smokers all the way from the top of the Cove to the freeway. Best wave was a head high wall were I squeaked around the corner and it held size and perfect form all the way through to the freeway. Epic.
Rincon	12/24/01 8:30 am - 12:30 pm	2 - 3'+ Swell not real big but enough happening that Rincon was breaking. Paddled out at the top of the Cove first. Some nice waves lining up although a little soft. Crowd was a bit out of hand also with a healthy pack jostling everywhere. Couldn't take it anymore so headed up to the Rivermouth which looked good and hollow but it was shifting around like mad making things even more frustrating. Finally headed back down towards the Cove and caught some real nice lines about halfway in the Cove that were swinging wide.
Swami's	12/22/01 7:30 am - 9:30 am	2 - 4'+ Still real lumpy west swell from the storm the day before which completely tattered the surf, but also generated a sizable swell. No takers yesterday morning but this morning, after it had smoothed out a bit, was packed. Breaking all over the place from outside , mid-peak, inside and also swinging wide inside. Stuck to the deep inside as the tide started to bottom out and scraped together quite a few fun waves that were good for the odd whack and lots of roundies. Scrambled conditions had the crowd guessing which left those knowlegdable with plenty of waves.
Swami's	12/20/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3'+ Crossed up swell from the south west and the west with some wind swell mixed in to boot. Some fun peaky lines coming through on the lower tide. Had to be choosy because some were real slow while others were hitting the inside bowl and lining up for multiple whacks. Caught a bunch of waves that were lining up beautifully to be immediately followed by a complete mushball. Caught a real nice one in, so left with one of those after surf glows.
Newbreak	12/16/01 2:00 pm - 4:30 pm	2 - 3' Swell had shifted even more north and smaller and so I finally broke down and went to the Cliffs for a low tide session. beautiful afternoon with just a breath of wind. A little limp and crowded at first but as the tide started peaking low the crowd dispersed and there were about 6 of us surfing nice little two foot walls with it throwing over the inside boil for a few little dippers which I managed to squeeze into to. Tube riding skills are a bit rusty. Need to start surfing here more again.
Swami's	12/15/01 9:00 am - 11:30 am	2 - 4' Flat on Friday but a pretty brisk little storm moved through kicking up some junky wind swell. Cleaned up overnight but still a bit on the weak and broken up side. A bit soft on the higher tide but the tide was dropping rapidly so it really started to get fun through the inside. Mostly round houses but a few were lining up for some lips.
PB Point	12/13/01 6:00 am - 7:30 am	1 - 3' Well it finally cleaned up, but with the cleanliness comes small waves. Was out at the point at the crack of dawn all by myself and there were still some three footers pushing through that were wrapping pretty far along the point but the tide was high and goint to get really high. Scored some fun waves for an hour all by myself but gradually the waves were getting softer and softer until it totally shut down when the tide peaked.
Scripps	12/12/01 6:30 am - 7:30 am	2 - 3'+ Another crapola day of surf. Beautiful offshore conditions, however, swell just left over mush burger wind swell with a really high tide. Would a lower tide help out? I don't know. A real struggle to get anything gougable. Lots of slow roundhouses and closeouts. Could have used the fish today but even long board were struggling. Call this close to terrible.
Parking Lot	12/11/01 6:00 am - 7:00 am	3 - 5'+ Another complete slop day. Extreme paddle out through the inside and then shifting mushy peaks breaking here and there but hard to nail down. Caught a small amount of waves the whole time with the one in the only worthy wave that had any hittable face. These days might be good on low tide here but have no way of knowing if you're not there in person to suss it out.
Swami's	12/10/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	3 - 5' Super junky, mixed up wind swell just not doing it on the high tide. A few soft corners but you needed a lot of luck to get a good one. Very disappointing considering the size. More roundhouse practice.
Swami's	12/05/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3'+ Much cleaner today but a lot smaller. A few fun ones rolling through but overall getting on the weak and mushy side. Managed to catch a couple off the peak that lined up nicely for a couple whacks but mostly just practicing the roundhouse today.
Swami's	12/04/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	3 - 6'+ Big junky swell. Mid tide handling it OK with just the outside working. Managed to catch two waves off the peak that were really good. One was an overhead screamer were the lip opened up beautifully off the drop for a nice fan and the other wound all the way inside. After that the tide moved in a bit too much for the swell, which with all the junk in it was not feeling the reef well at all. Bits and pieces here and there outside and inside but not lining up well. Finally managed to get a good one in all the way through, so left it on a good note.
Swami's	12/03/01 6:00 am - 7:30 am	2 - 4'+ New swell filling in. Clean conditions with a bit too much tide. First hour caught a lot of fun waves around mid peak that were real rippable but once the tide came in more it totally shut it down.
Swami's	12/01/01 9:30 am - 12:30 pm	2 - 3'+ A big wind swell sent the Harvest buoy from 4' to a macking 18' foot on Friday morning of course with me totally clueless and missing a potential session on Friday morning. Anyhow, supposedly very hollow on the low that afternoon but not the cleanest swell. Like most of these hurry up swells they come quickly and leave just as quickly. Went out almost two hours after the extreme high and was rewarded with uncrowded, slightly mushy conditions. Tide dropped out pretty quick and some fun ones on the corner but it was definitely getting dribblier as the day wore on with the swell evaporating quick. Caught some fun waves so not bad.