surf

december 2002

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Location	Date/Time	Conditions
The Wall (Punta Rosarito)	12/31/02 8:00 am - 10:00 am	4 - 6' some 8+ Much bigger today. Was definitely lining up even though it was howling side shore. Was getting some good lined up walls through the mid section of the bay for some solid whacks and some speed runs. Still a pretty soft wave. Everyone keeps saying that I haven't seen it at it's full glory but I think I will pass on this place next time unless it's flat everywhere else. The tide moves super quick here too. It was a 6.5 full at 7 and by 10 it was way out.
The Wall (Punta Rosarito)	12/30/02 7:30 am - 9:30 am	3 - 4'+ Well after driving two days to get to the Wall during the flat spell we didn't miss a whole lot. Heard it was really windy for weeks. Anyhow, some junky soft swell in the water that was pretty roundhousable. Pretty uninspiring considering the long drive to get here. This is probably the biggest point I've ever seen. Massive but only a few sections of it work. I guess when it's super big and clean it gets good. Was also testing out my foot for the first time after staying off it for 8 days. Felt a little tender but wasn't really holding me back. Wish I could remeber some memorable waves but very few.
Del Mar 8th St.	12/21/02 7:30 am - 10:00 am	2 - 4' Surfed dropped big time over night. Swami's barely doing it so Morgan and myself headed down back south for more swell and took a look at Del Mar. 8th really liking the high tide and throwing the occasional mimic of a point over the reef. A bit sketchy getting down the cliff with all the rain making the ground slick. First wave was the besat one that lined for for some solid whakcs. hard to chase these down but they were showing with some completely mushy while others lining up nicely. Morgan went in after lossing his board so surfed for another half hour catching a few good ones holding up into the channel for a whack and roundie. Nothing great but fun. Climbing back up the trail I was really digging in with the feet and somehow slicied my big toe big time. Didn't even notice until I was changing.
Swami's	12/21/02 6:30 am - 9:00 am	5 - 6' some 8+ Surf got pretty solid again on Friday but the south winds in the morning from the storm really mixed it up. Much cleaner today and still pretty solid. Paddle out was a little tricky with the high tide but nothing as silly as Monday. Some really good waves off the peak and just inside of the peak. Was feeling a bit undergunned at first but eased into the session and got real comfortable picking off the insideres that were still easily 6 foot plus. Caught some real sweet ones that were opening up nicley for big carves. Did an insane air drop on one and somehow pulled it off. Good.
Swami's	12/19/02 6:30 am - 9:00 am	4 - 6' some + What a difference a day makes. Looks like some new ground swell mixing with lingering wind swell. Offshores and high tide really cleaning it up for some nice long powerful lines. While the tide was going up still some big drops and open faces for whacks were to be had. Once the tide turnedaround it really had some sectioning barels. Managed to shove myself into quite a few quick ones. Real fun.
Swami's	12/18/02 4:00 pm - 5:00 pm	3 - 5' some 6+ Still super junky but ridable. Pretty soft and then heaving in places. Impossible to get a wave with a completely frenzied after school crowd. Always someone out postioning you. Caught a couple that were good for a few roundies and got a pretty whackable one on the way in. Poor to say the least.
Swami's	12/16/02 7:00 am - 8:30 am	8 - 10' some 12+ High tide was making things seemingly a bit more manageable but the paddle out looked sketchy if you got swept. Looking like Sunset. Looked at it for a long time mainly because I was looking at being completely under gunned on a 6'6" based on my experience from the night before. Decided to hit it anyhow and try to catch a few of the ones swinging a bit more wide inside. Very tough. Hard to explain the powerlessness of watching guys on bigger boards be in position. Equipment very critical in these situations. Caught my first one which was big and soft for a few roundies. Second was a closeout. Third was easily ten foot and my board was skipping too much and was just trying to make it to the channel to pull out. Fourth was another bomb that I had to out run and felt really squirly on. Fifth and final was a corner that actually lined up for a huge roundie and whack before petering into the channel. Must get a gun for these occasions.
Swami's	12/15/02 6:00 am - 8:30 am 2:00 pm - 4:00 pm	4 - 6' some 8+ in the morning and 6 - 10' some 12 - 15' Plenty of swell already showing in the morning from the mega monster on the way. High tide, really solid, clean and very very rippable. Probably some of the best surf so far this year. Mainly surfed the corner but the corner was still head high while the peak was well overhead. Plenty of power under foot for full on rail carves. Super fun. Too many good ones to count. A nice bowl through the inside stands out. Had such a good time in the morning decided to hit it up again in the afternoon. Mistake. Buoys had doubled in size as had the crowd. Probably 60 guys jockeying on the peak which was the only spot working. 3 to 4 guys per wave common. A complete snake fest and a dangerous one at that with bodies littering the line up. Tide was pretty low and waves were big and mushy on the outside and then jacking up unpredictably through mid peak. Wasn't so under gunned as unable to position earlier than every one else on guns. Caught a bomb all the way through which I payed for by getting drilled on the inside paddling back out. Caught a couple more OK ones but wasn't getting the ones with the good face. Frustrating. Got an OK one in but wasn't completely satisfied.
Swami's	12/14/02 6:00 am - 8:30 am	2 - 4' some 6+ What can I say another day of swell. A boost last night in north and south swells. Really lined up and clean. High tide a bit slow but some really good race tracks through mid peak. Some sets swinging real wide looking good. Finally chased down on = of those head high ones. Lots of good whacks and roundies today. Fun.
Swami's	12/13/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 4' some + Lingering wind swell, north west ground swell and southern hemi adding up to some fun waves on the corner today. A bit slow but plenty rippable. Super light crowd. Pretty fun.
Newbreak	12/12/02 8:30 am - 10:30 am	2 - 4' some 5+ Wasn't going to repeat a slow session at Swami's again so headed down to the cliffs with Sean. A new swell supposedly on the way up mixed with a pretty good dose of southern hemi. One guy out at Nubes on the medium going low so we were on it. A little slow at first but once the tide started dropping it really started coming on with some overhead sets that were pretty rippable. Managed to get a quick tuck on a drop on a pretty solid sized set. Lots of rippable waves with just three other guys out for almost two hours. Pretty good.
Swami's	12/11/02 6:00 am - 9:00 am	2 - 3' some 4+ Less ground swell and a heck of a lot of wind swell. Slow and sectiony with a dropping tide not helping out all. Caught a few good ones mid peak and then just kind of floundered around waiting on the outside for something to line up. By then every one had gone in so just a few of use sharing the soft peaks. Tide turned, offshore died and it started lining up a bit better for a couple good whackables, lining up all the way through.
Swami's	12/10/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 3' some 4+ A rejuvenation in ground swell from the southern hemisphere. A low tide kind of helping things out with a few medium size rippers through the inside. Really cold this morning almost forcing the booties on but haven't had the urge to do it yet. Pretty fun for awhile with a pretty light crowd.
Swami's	12/09/02 6:00 am - 9:00 am	2 - 3' some 4+ Swell had really dropped overnight and junked up a bit. Still some fun ones through the inside every once in awhile. A few good ones of the peak too if you could get one. Crowd finally at a manageable work week level. Caught a couple of good rippers on the inside which really started working for about a half an hour. Fun but nothing great.
Swami's	12/08/02 6:00 am - 9:00 am	3 - 4' some 5+ Swell peaked again last night(seem to be missing these peaks). Tides are finally a bit lower with low at 6:00 so it was just turning around. Ground swell still out there but some wind swell mix on top. We've been pretty spoiled with these super clean swells and conditions so it was almost a shock to see a little junk in the swell. Anyhow, some good waves coming off the peak amd the inside after the tide started moving in. The crowd was mercifully light. Stuck mainly to the inside for some good reforms that were getting pretty whackable as the tide filled in. Morgan came out with me and was chasing the peak so went out there and caught a couple of bombs. One really opened up for me for full on carves. Morgan caught a solid one and somehow everyone pulled out for him. Nice.
Swami's	12/07/02 6:00 am - 9:00 am	3 - 4' some 6+ Swell peaked last night but still quite a bit around this morning. Heavy crowd. Definitely needed a bigger board today just to get in early on the peak which was pretty much the only action today. Had to use all my wits to snag some off the peak but did manage to get a couple big ones. The inside started turning on with a higher tide but the crowd was at an all time frenzy. Got a few good shoulder high rippers to my self on the inside but many more with drop ins and complete blatant snakes. Swell seemed to be fading but stayed out for another hour to get some to myself and finally got a really good one from deep inside and went in. Whew what a work out!
Swami's	12/06/02 6:00 am - 8:00 sm	3 - 4' some 5+ Tides finally getting a bit more reasonable in the early morning. New swell beginning to fill in. Some bomb sets every once in wahile but I chose to stick more inside for a higher wave count, especially when the tide started pushing the inside started really turning on for awhile. Some nice wedgy peaks opening up with just a few of use sharing while everyone battled on the peak. Pretty fun and looking to get better ofater a tide drop.
Swami's	12/05/02 11:00 am - 1:00 pm	2 - 3'+ A 7.4' high tide just really slowing things down to non existence. Tide started dropping out and a few sets were pouring through the inside every once in awhile. Swell really not here yet but enough to draw me out and also enough to draw about 20 of my friends out too. Pretty fun at first with no wind and some sets swinging wide for a couple of roundies and a few lips. Tide shifted lower and it got smaller and even more crowded. Waited for ever to get a pretty good one in. worth the wait as it opened up nicely for quite a few whacks.
PB Drive	12/04/02 7:00 am - 9:00 am	1 - 3'+ Super high tide really not conducive to anywhere except for the PB/Mission beach breaks. Near freezing at my house this morning and really hard to motivate but there were a few clean and lined up lefts and rights pushing through inconsistently. Enough to whiz down the line and hit the close out section. The lefts were a little more open for some carves until the tide got way to high and mushed it out. Nothing great but better than nothing.
Swami's	12/01/02 7:00 am - 10:00 am	2 - 4'+ Guessed I missed it and the crowds on Sunday. Oh well. Made up for it today. Tide real high and slowing it down at first but still some fun round house waves until the tide really started pulling out. It started turning on then with the corner and the peak working. Alternated between the two with the better waves swinging wide into the inside. Caught some real fun ones here with one throwing a nice pit and then just asking to be hit. Pretty good. Would of stayed out longer but my arms were pretty noodled.