surf

december 2005

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Location	Date/Time	Conditions
PB Point	12/31/05 6:00 am - 10:00 am	4 - 6' some 8'+ Swell a notch down from yesterday and much cleaner. Tide was peaking about 9 with at 7'. Point handing it well. had to sit deep to get the good ones across the point but well worth taking a beating on the cleanups washing through. Caught some meaty waves over the boils that were gurgling and throwing. As the tide turned had a silky smooth hour of consistently good waves peaking right off the boils through to the stairs. Was pretty noodled out after that session. Good stuff.
PB Point	12/30/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	5 - 7' some 9'+ Swell had supposedly started to drop but still solid in southern San Diego. Looked to be a mix of long period swell and quite a bit of medium period swell. Another really fat tide of about 7' at dawn but enough swell that it wasn't much of a problem. Just a few guys out and super consistent. A lot of waves breaking on the outer reefs but the ones that would slide through onto the point lining up well with a lot of power. Big drops to a big shoulder to a nice walled reform through the top of the point. Plenty of rippable waves to be had and couldn't believe there was hardly anyone out. Really fun.
Swami's	12/29/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	4 - 5' some 6'+ Swell still hanging in but much more inconsistent and not nearly as clean as yesterday with some short period wind swell adding some wobble. Unlike the day before just not enough swell for the amount of water over the reef so you had to hope you picked a double up that would line up. Still a few good ones to be had - just had to be lucky. I nabbed a few but pretty disappointing after yesterday.
Swami's	12/28/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	4 - 6' some 8+' New northwest swell filling in. A bit inconsistent but solid and squeaky clean. Not as big as the swell last week but much cleaner and rippable. Lining up beautifully from the outside all the way through. Actually, all sections working today and lining nicely on the high tide. Was nabbing a few swingers that were super rippable. My wave in was a solid one that swung wide and peeled all the way past the stairs. Very good.
Swami's	12/27/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	4 - 5' some 8' Another day of swell. A tad soft on the high tide but if you picked the right one they were lining up all the way through. Lots of waves making the connection from the peak to the corner so had to be patient. Nabbed some good ones and seemed to be getting better as I was leaving. Fun.
Topanga	12/26/05 6:00 am - 8:30 am	3 - 5' New northwest in the water. Was up in LA for the holidays and scooted down to Topanga from Westwood at dawn. Squeaky clean lines off the top of the point racing through the inside. Just a few guys out at dawn and we were trading the inconsistent sets. Caught some beautiful peelers all the way through that were beautifully shaped and dying to be hit. Tide started dropping and the waves were cornering a bit more but still really fun. Around 7:30 or so it seemed like the whole San Fernando Valley had arrived to ruin our good time. Became so crowded people were pulling full on Malibu style look at you and drop in maneuvers on logs. Highly annoying and a bit dangerous. Heard a few guys say Sunset was all time on Wednesday. At that moment I wished it was that big to clean out the kooks. Fun until I realized I was in LA.
Swami's	12/24/05 6:00 am - 10:00 am	4 - 6' some 8' Swell had cleaned up over night and coming off the high tide things started smoothing out nicely. Some really rippable waves today as the peak and the inside were dishing up some head high waves. Crowd pretty manageable too which made it that much more enjoyable. Fun stuff.
Swami's	12/23/05 6:00 am - 11:30 am	6 - 8' some 10'+ Seeing I have to work everyday, can't drive up the coast for an easy run, and Swami's the only place holding I decided to pass on Thursday and waited till my day off on Friday. Still pretty macking but manageable. Surfed off the peak a bit and then surfed the corner for awhile as the swell pulsed up again going close to double overhead for the third day in a row. Swell still pretty wobbly from yesterdays swell peak which apparently got a bit messy. Still managed to get some really good ones but it was a constant battle with the crowd for position the whole time I was out. Good.
Swami's	12/21/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	6 - 10' some 15'+ Swell just starting to really show as I paddled out at dawn. Lots of randoms with their guns out and just a general feeling of overcrowding - was surprised the news wasn't there yet. Swell straight west so channel closing out quite a bit and some thick ledges throwing through the corner. Triple overhead waves off the peak way too crowded to even attempt catching something that you wouldn't have to battle for or have 3 guys drop in on you - that type of day .So, I hung dangerously deep on the corner hoping for those swingers to back off a bit. Caught a couple of real nice swingers through what i guess could be considered the inside. Swell was growing and the corner was getting angrier and chucking sections. Unlike on the peak which has a nice broad takeoff, at size the corner is a bit dicey getting in so selection key. Nailed down a couple more but the swell was really starting to build to heavy proportions closing out the channel more often than not on the swingers. Caught a big swinger that rifled and ledged across the inside where all I could do was run for my life to beat the sections. Heavy. As I was walking up the stairs the first really big set of the day caught everybody inside. some people claiming 20 foot. I was thinking more like 15 but hey no one on it to measure.
Swami's	12/20/05 6:00 am - 10:00 am	3 - 6'+ More west swell but a mix of shorter period and long period swell. Some bomb sets coming through. For some reason I took out the 6'1" thinking it was going to be smaller but in the chunky conditions it was a good choice. Surfed the inside with one or two other guys while a small pack was on it on the peak. Caught some real gems from mid peak all the way through. Highly enjoyable and once again beat the crowd.
Swami's	12/19/05 6:00 am - 10:00 am	2 - 4'+ Swell on the back slide but still some good sets pushing through and very clean. Took out the 6'5" but thought it was a bit much board. Still caught some nice swinging corners that were lining up for a few thwacks. Crowd pretty mellow at dawn and didn't get thick until I was heading in which was nice for a change. Fun.
Swami's	12/18/05 6:00 am - 10:00 am	3 - 5'+ New west swell in the water. Conditions really nice and the tides although still high not shut down high. Some good waves at dawn on the inside while everyone was scrapping on the outside. Getting better as the tide pushed but the crowd was getting really thick and had to fight over scraps on the inside and many waves off the peak connecting limiting the amount of insiders up for grabs. Cruised outside to catch a set and managed to nail one down but headed back inside as the crowd fluctuated from super crowded to bearable for the rest of the morning. Surfed the 6' 5" for the first time in months and was enough to get around the really lined up sections and was surprisingly loose. Fun despite the crowd.
Swami's	12/17/05 6:30 am - 8:30 am	1 - 3' Swell petered out overnight. A few sets lingering but the high tide and the long boards putting a damper on it. Managed to pull down a really nice set which made the session worth while. OK.
Hanneman's	12/16/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	2 - 4' A medium sized west swell had filled in overnight. Inconsistent but some good sized sets would push through every five to tens minutes or so. Some really nice lefts that were opening up for some nice schwacks and roundies right at dawn before the tide got to on it. OK.
OB Jetty	12/13/05 6:30 am - 7:30 am	2 - 4' Swell fading but still some decent sets coming through. Super high tide but the jetty sometimes likes these higher tides. A bit soft but the sets lining up well and super hittable until the tide finally completely flooded and shut it down. Unbearably cold upon exiting the water with the ol' feet becoming stumps within seconds. OK.
PB Point	12/12/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	3 - 5' some 6+ Swell peaking and had turned a bit more north over night. Point about shoulder to head high and consistent. Some nice lined up waves off the boils to the top of the point but not making the connection into the cove. Still pretty fun and rippable though and a mellow crowd. Fun.
Swami's	12/11/05 6:30 am - 10:00 am	2 - 4' some 5+ New northwest finally showing but a super high tide before dawn kind of swamping it. Some super lined up waves coming through on the sets but of course there were not enough of those to go around. As the tide pulled out and the swell filled in it started to get much better but the crowd was at a manic level by this point. Becoming too much of a chore to surf here anymore. Good but....
Sunset Cliffs	12/10/05 10:30 am - 1:30 pm	1 - 3' Supposed to be a new swell filling in but it seemed not to be happening. Paddled out at Nubes first where there was only a couple of long boards out and a few sweet little waves. Quickly became crowded with some real slobs so headed over to Chasms. A couple of logs out here too but way clueless. Right breaking off the edge into the bay between Thirty Thrills sloping and hucking in sections but linking quite nicely. Logs went in and had it to myself for awhile but only for about ten minutes when a new pack paddled out so headed toward Abs to head in which by the time I got there the tide had turned and pretty much had shut most everywhere down. Luckily got one in. OK.
OB Jetty	12/08/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	2 - 3'+ Small west swell filled in the evening before. Inconsistent but super clean. Sandbar is looking like its getting back into shape with the bounce back in effect for some sweet peaks sling shotting into some zippy walls and a few tubes. Fun.
Thomas St.	12/04/05 6:00 am - 9:00 am	2 - 3'+ More wind swell filled in overnight. Nothing big but consistent. Pretty fun at dawn with the rights lining up nicely. As the tide filled in the lefts started popping off way inside good for a couple of turns. A few guys out because it was the weekend and conditions were lovely with light offshores. Fortunately pretty much had a peak all to myself. Fun.
Thomas St.	12/03/05 7:00 am - 9:00 am	1 - 3' Storm pushed through overnight leaving a slightly morning sick ocean with a light west wind on it. Some very scrappy wind swell. Checked Scripps first which had more size but they were having a contest there. Headed back to PB hoping the high tide sand bars would do it again. A few fun left double ups on the extreme tide but messy. Too much tide killed what little swell there was after an hour or so. OK.
Thomas St.	12/02/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	1 - 3' Wind swell had smoothed out overnight into small straight lines. Patchy fog making it hard to see exactly what was going on but super high tide had some reforms lining up on the inside. Fun little rights and lefts with the lefts having a lot more line to them. Just a few guys out so it was pretty fun.
Scripp's	12/01/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	2 - 3'+ More short period junk in the water but a bit bigger today. Pretty lumpy from strong outer winds and a nice morning sickness with a north wind on it. Wind laid down and tide started pushing. A few rights and lefts by the stairs lining up a bit for a few whacks. Surfable but nothing great.