surf

january 2001

» surf archives

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Swami's	01/28/01 7:30 am - 10:30 am	2 - 4'+ Left over junk wind swell mixing with some groundswell. Nice offshore conditions but the surf was lacking punch especially on the medium tide, which was creating fading and sectiony peaks. Started to line up on the inside as the tide started filling in making for some fun wackable waves. Had to get my quota in and was out for quite awhile.
Swami's	01/25/01 6:30 am - 8:00 am	3 - 4'+ High tide and wind swell making for less than stellar surf. Lots of water moving around making for a bitch of a paddle. Backed off mushballs predominating. A few fun lined up ones on the inside ledge. Tried surfing the peak but it was just big drops and the lucky few would get a lined up one. Got a good lined up one in way inside kiddie bowl so I left with a good glow.
PB Point	01/22/01 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 5' West swell still hanging in there. Tide a bit more high today and surf not as grounded making for mushier conditions than yesterday. Still pretty good with just two longboarders out. Tide was really high before I went in and the inside corner was starting to work as the outside peak, which is optimal point. Caught two of these and went in as a whole slew of crusties started checking it. Where has everybody been?
PB Point	01/22/01 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 5' New west swell just starting to show and unbelievably clean. One guy surfing and Hermo and just little ol me surfing the point - fucking unbelievable. Perfect direction and peeling. After about an hour of catching waves to the stairs about five guys paddled out. By then I was more than satisfied. Calling this one epic.
Swami's	01/21/01 9:00 am - 12:00 am	2 - 5' some + Swell way down but sooo clean. Really good when I first got out and just rippable. Surfed the peak a bit and then ended up at kiddie bowl for the rest of the session, which was just peeling beautifully. Swell was really slacking off towards low tide so decided to go in but would have stayed out longer if it kept up. Real fun.
Del Mar 10th St	01/20/01 9:30 am - 11:00 am	6 - 10' some + Swell not as big today and a lot of places not holding well or not picking it up good. Morgan and I did a complete check of north PB and the La Jolla reefs and they were looking 6 foot and mushy while Tourmaline cove was really inconsistent. Decided to head up north and ended up surfing Del Mar for some godforsaken reason. Huge closeouts with a few corners. Morgan managed to dislocate his shoulder and I caught three waves the whole time the first being a bomb that I just raced down the line. Took a lot on the head. Pretty dissapointing for the size of the swell.
Swami's	01/19/01 6:30 am - 8:00 am	4 - 8' some + Big north swell coming on strong and extremely clean. Some really big sets coming through but it was pretty inconsistent but dawn crowd was pretty medium sized and mellow. Some huge walls peeling through the outside and connecting through kiddie bowl. Mainly surfed kiddie bowl which was swinging wide at about 6-8 foot and reeling down the line. Wanted to stay out longer but had to go to work. When I got out there were even bigger sets pushing 10+ easily. Caught quite a few insane waves.
Parking Lot	01/16/01 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3' some +More left over wind swell. No one out at dawn and there was a few mushy peaks to be had. Nothing spectacular just round house waves with a few sections lining up for a smack. Pretty uninspiring. The coldest I think I have been in years. Could barely use my car keys.
OB Jetty	01/15/01 7:00 am - 8:30 am	2 - 4' Junky and weird this morning. Was better when I first got out with some waves actually lining up next to the jetty. Corner not working at all. Just a few warbly bowls and sections to play with before closing out. A few were lining up nicely but it was a hard find.
Parking Lot	01/13/01 2:00 pm - 4:00 pm	2 - 3' What a difference a day makes. Swell was practically gone by the afternoon. Thought it would stick around seeing that it seemingly had a bit of size in the morning. However, by the time I went out it was just samll inconsistent wind swell. No one out at the lot and with the tide dropping I figured I'd give it a go with the chance it might get decent. Caught a few zippy little rights and a couple of sets that tried lining up but it really wasn't working well - needed more swell and possibly less tide. Bunch of guys out in the Cove catching a pretty fun and inconsistent right but after about an hour the swell dropped even more and everything pretty much shut off.
Swami's	01/12/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	4 - 6'+ Big warbly storm swell with underlying ground swell. Lot's of water moving around and Swami's was big and unpredictable. Blowing offshore and raining hard so the waves were trying to shape up reasonably well. A bit mushy in places but pretty surfable. Caught a couple of bombs that swung wide into kiddie bowl and charged through the inside well overhead. Tried to surf the peak but was feeling pretty undergunned, plus it was hard to line up. Managed to get some pretty large peaks but wave selection was key - you could either get a big mushball or get a nice fat screamer. Ended up back wide at kiddie bowl and squeaked a nice lined up 4 footer in. Got on the beach and realized how exhausted I was from basically two hours straight of paddling.
Swami's	01/10/01 7:00 am - 8:00 am	4 - 6'+ Swell had majorly cleaned up over night and was actually blowing offshore. High tide has been plaguing these morning sessions (the only time I can go during the week in the winter) and not too many places handle a big swell and high tide well. Thought I give Swami's a shot because basically it can hold anything. Fat, meaty peaks breaking outside and through the inside - looking like a mini Sunset. Because of the high tide it was breaking well in the corner of the point over the most defined part of the reef. These waves were standing up and lining up well while others, swinging wide over kiddie bowl, were just complete mushballs. The trick was finding the right one in the shifty and extremely backed off conditions - basically positioning was a bitch on my 6'6". Only managed to get three good waves out of maybe eight, but they were screamers that lined up all the way through. Wasn't the only one struggling. When the tide really filled in almost everyone went in and had it with two other guys for about 15 minutes before I moseyed on in.
Swami's	01/07/01 8:30 am - 11:00 am	2 - 5'+ Solid but very inconsistent west running. Super crowded and esy to get out so every goon in North County was trying to surf Swami's. Cut offs a rule today making for a bummer vibe. Surfed every inch of that reef trying to get some to myself. Got some good ones but it was a major strain on the patience. Really nice ones from the outside connecting through. Managed to get about 4 of these and the rest were kiddie bowl waves which were a bit sectiony on the medium tide. Oh well, maybe next time.
Newbreak	01/06/01 11:30 am - 2:00 pm	2 - 4' Small west still running with what looks to be a new groundswell a little more out of the north. Only hitting a few spots down at the Cliffs well. Actually walked all the way down to 33 but was not really big enough to get it working properly and there were five guys out and more on the way so Nubes was the call. Medium sized crowd and the swell was getting more consistent as the tide was dropping. Really good today. Better with a bit more full tide but real hollow. Not a ton of face to work with but some waves were opening up well for some hits but it was mainly trying to beat the section and get barreled. Caught a beauty outside that threw over me on the take off and was easily shcked for a couple seconds and then pulled out and shacked again on the inside. No wind. A hot and epic day.
Swami's	01/05/01 6:30 am - 8:00 pm	2 - 3' Super clean west swell running that was a little inconsistent. Oee of those swells created by an extra tropical cyclone off Japan so almost pure west and hitting the inside reef at Swami's and peeling. Very light crowd probably because not too many people realizing that a ground swell is running. Real fun and rippy again.
Swami's	01/03/01 6:30 am - 8:00 pm	2 - 4' Swell came up quickly the day before and looked real good all afternoon but of course I was at work. Decided to charge Swami's after looking at a few places down here not handling the swell good at all. Not real big but the inside was uncrowded and real rippy. Caught a lot of good waves in a short amount of time. Tide was dropping and making for it to section off from main peak and kidie bowl allowing for sneaker sets to swing wide into the bowl. Caught on of these gems to go in on.
OB Jetty	01/01/01 7:30 am - 9:30 pm	1-2' some 3' New swell really nowhere in sight with just background swell predominating and very inconsistent. Saw a few fun wedges at the jetty finally making me go out. Wish I didn't. Worst session I have had in months. Really no waves after the first half hour and the ones that were coming through were either real mushy, warbly, or closed out and basically shit. Pretty bunk.