surf

january 2002

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Scripp's	01/29/02 6:30 am - 7:30 am	1 - 2'+ Very, very, cold this morning. Surf just left over wind swell poo. Very high tide the only thing helping it out with a few left reforms on the inside. Actually caught one that opened up for three hitties. That was the high light of the session. Pretty weak. Definitely a maintenance surf.
Swami's	01/23/02 6:30 am - 7:30 am	2 - 3'+ Very cold this morning. Luckily I had just purchased a new suit yesterday. A 3/2 O'Neil Epic. They stopped making the Heat and now the top of the line is called the Psycho, which is like $325 bucks! The epic is only $200 so that seemed a little more reasonable and is pretty much last years Heat except for the neck and the pillow chest. Was so disappointed in the Heat's durability that I have vowed never to pay more than 200 bones for a suit - doesn't make sense with the lifespan of these puppies. Anyhow, more wind swell that kind of organized itself but was still pretty soft. Lots of round houses to today with the odd lip to whack off the peak. Was feeling pretty loose today. Fun, but nothing impressive.
Scripp's	01/20/02 7:30 am - 9:00 am	3 - 5'+ Woke up and checked the buoys and wasn't really expecting much. Was pleasantly surprised to see a solid little wind swell running. Looked like there was enough so headed up to Swami's. North county pretty flat with Swami's a dribbly 1-3'. Remembered that the Scripps buoy was showing good size so head there. Scripps is just sucking the swell up. Sand sucking pits with just squeaker channels up and down the beach. Tough getting out because of the consistency. Haven't been thrashed like that in awhile. Finally managed to get outside after being relentlessly pounded by the stairs for ten minutes and find a few fast lefts. Get completely thrashed and thrown on my board and to the bottom while paddling out after my second left. Had to be real choosy but there were some right gems to be had. Catch a few of these to make the session worthwhile but was real sore.
Black's	01/19/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 3'+ Funky mixture of swell running today. A little west wind swell, a tad of south, and some odd chop. Deceptively powerful. Got drilled a couple times by a couple solid left closeouts. Mostly quick drops and whacks to fading shoulder on the lefts while a few of the rights were actually lining up. Caught a nice right wall that was real hittable and also a nice right tube. Some guy on a longboard was charging the right tubes in what looked like a bid to snap his board. Tide started filling in making for some weird warble and more mush so went in.
Swami's	01/14/02 6:30 am - 7:30 am	3 - 4' Clean and inconsistent north west filling in a bit. Just two guys out. Amazing. No one out when I looked at it. Some good clean walls when the came through. A few more guys joined us but it was amazingly uncrowded. Everybody must of been surfed out and going to work instead.
PB Point	01/13/02 8:00 am - 10:00 am	2 - 4'+ Swell still hanging in but much more north and junky. Decided to mix it up a bit and surf the Point. Round housy waves with a few lining up but it was a little to junky and soft to be really good. Still fun with a light crowd, but nothing great.
Swami's	01/12/02 8:30 am - 11:00 am	2 - 4'+ New swell peaked the day before in the afternoon. Still fun surf hanging in with good consistency and a pretty light crowd as the tide turned. Play ground waves today. Just really fun and rippable and most everybody enjoying themselves. Started to get zooed out so went in.
Swami's	01/11/02 6:30 am - 7:30 am	2 - 4' Knew that the massive west couldn't last forever but it was still lingering on and a new swell filling in behind it. Still plenty fun out there just not the massive size but still super clean and rippable even on the extreme 6 and half foot tide.
Swami's	01/10/02 6:00 am - 7:30 am	4 - 8'+ Paddled out in the dark because I had to be somewhere at 9:00 no exceptions, so couldn't really tell how big it was. Not as big as the day before but plenty solid still. Caught a bomb right off the bat that was at least a 10 footer. Really like my 6'6" in this juice and handles the size well. Plenty of carvable head high waves again.
Swami's	01/09/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	5 - 10' Cleaned up big time over night as the swell filled in. Extremely solid this morning. Even with the high tide just completely firing but making it a little tricky getting out through the shore pound. Massive carvable peaks breaking all the way through with some tubes and sheet glass once the offshore backed off. Second wave I caught got a nice cover up. So many good waves its just a blur. Every wave at least head high and perfect. About as good as it gets here.
Swami's	01/08/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	3 - 5'+ Really not that big yet for all the hype. Clean when I first got out with some nice fat waves pushing off the peak. Caught one of these and then caught a few funs ones through the inside. Paddled back out and noticed that the swell was really getting lumpy and crossed up. Must be the start of the new swell. Warble and cross making it hard to connect sections and really starting to mush and section the waves out. Very few good waves coming through for the rest of the session and ended up surfing the inside trying to get some to connect and line up. Managed to get a few and caught a decent one in that opened up but overall kind of disappointing considering the size.
Swami's	01/07/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 4' Swell jumped up again this morning with a tad more north in it. Some fun clean lines pushing through the peak and mid peak for a few whacks here and there and a lot of round houses. Not too many connecting all the way through however, but I bet that will change when the tide turns high again in the afternoon. Caught one really nice wave mid peak that lined up beautifully for some strong snaps. Another high pressure system dominating for what looks to be shaping up as another wind less day.
Swami's	01/05/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 4'+ but fading fast All good things finally have to come to an end. Still pulsing off the peak at dawn with the low tide helping a lot. Good thing I had to do the dawn patrol today because swell was fading fast. Caught a beauty off the peak and ended up positioned on the inside were I caught two waves back to back. First one I got a dipper off the drop in and then the second one got fully shacked. Session went quickly down hill after that with the tide dropping more, swell getting warbly and small, and the crowd reaching a ridiculous level. Finally manged to catch one through the inside for a final whack and a small cover up thorugh kiddie bowl.
Swami's	01/04/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	3 - 5'+ How long will this swell hold? Unknown but it has been so good. I thought I would be surfed out but I just keep coming back for more. The westerly direction of this series of swell has been just so spot on for Swami's. Couldn't ask for a better direction. Mostly the peak today with a bit of warble in the swell. Still the peak was dishing up A-frame take offs and reeling through to the mid section. The odd corner popping up on the inside also. Very good once again.
Swami's	01/03/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	3 - 6'+ Waited for the sun to come up a bit today. Not as big as yesterday but cleaner and possibly better formed. Just damned good again and relly one of those days that makes this place so coveted. Peak was really connecting well through all sections and extremely rippable. So many good waves and everbody ripping.
Swami's	01/02/02 6:00 am - 7:30 am	4 - 8'+ Paddled out in darkness and had really no idea that it was as big as it was. Spooky with huge glass bombs rifling across what is normally the channel. Paddled out to the peak and even with my poor night vision stroked into a solid 6 footer that reeled all the way through. Just got better after the sun came up with every wave overhead and firing. Oodles of power in this swell and the peak was perfectly A-framing. Had the routine were I was catching one off the peak, paddling back out half way and then catching a mid section that were standing up deep and conecting with the inside. Mucho bueno.