surf

January 2004

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Newbreak	01/30/04 7:30 am - 10:30 am	2 - 4' An inconsistent combo of south and northwest swell running with strong offshores. Not too many guys out on the medium tide early. A bit soft at first but as the tide dropped it became more hollow and lined up. Good for some lip bashes and a few tubes. One dude on a fish just got shacked off his gourd a couple of times. I managed to pull into a couple short ones myself. Real light crowd a plus. Pretty fun.
OB Jetty	01/29/04 8:30 am - 10:00 am	1 - 3' A little bit of south and some wind swell keeping things interesting. Not a soul out at the Jetty so was on it. Some inconsistent but pretty rippable little wedges right of the outside jetty. Super shallow. Found this out after pearling on a cutty and digging my nose into hard pack sand that almost snapped off about six inches of the nose on my 6'2". Luckily it didn't shear completely off but busted the stringer and cracked the glass on the bottom all the way across. Kept surfing anyway and caught some more fun little rippers. A few heads joined me after awhile but plenty too go around. Fun.
Newbreak	01/28/04 6:30 am - 8:30 am	1 - 3' The death throes of a dying swell. Raining and howling offshore. Saw what seemed to be chest to head high waves from the cliff but I think that was the last gasp of the swell. Some inconsistent south swell pulses pushing in every five minutes or so racing across the inside for some roundies and a few lips. Nothing spectacular but had it to myself after my only companion got disgusted at the conditions and went in. It was a joy trying to hurdle back up the clay slick gully from the beach. OK.
Swami's	01/26/04 6:30 am - 10:00 am	2 - 4'+ Another day that was definitely better than was predicted. Still some ground swell in the water cracking across the peak. Some pretty solid lined up peaks coming through inconsistently. Had to be choosy but some were winding all the way through. Managed to scrape up a few of the these. Some insiders as well but the rising tide was somehow shutting the corner down. Was riding the 6'2" and should've been on the 6'6" to get across the soft section on some of the outsiders. Tide kept on rising and the corner came to life. Some really fun lined up waves in here. Really rippable. Fun.
Swami's	01/25/04 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 4'+ Started off good for the first half hour with it doing a repeat of yesterday with some solid lining up lines off the peak. Suddenly however, some wind swell from the passing storm rolled in with the tide and completely junked and softened it up. OK.
Swami's	01/24/04 6:30 am - 9:00 am	2 - 5'+ Kind of a surprise today. Not expecting a whole lot and it turned out to be pretty darn good. Blowing real hard offshore from an approaching storm. Winds holding up what otherwise would have been some sectiony waves for some total speed burns and some tubes. Real crackable also. Had about a two hour window until the tide got too high. Good.
PB Point	01/23/04 6:30 am - 9:00 am	2 - 3' A little smaller but much cleaner today. Tide only going to about 6.3' so even with the peaking tide not as bumped up as yesterday. Lots of fun rippable waves coming through with just a few heads on it again. Real fun.
PB Point	01/22/04 8:00 am - 10:00 am	2 - 3' some + These large tide swings are totally killing the surf. Looked everywhere and the only place that could handle the tide was the Point. Swell much weaker than expected. Quite a bit of bump as the tide started peaking but still surfable. A few good ones lining up for some roundies and a few lips. Lots of waves not so hot. Crowd nice and light with just a few heads along with me. Caught one all the way through from the outside to the inside of the cove. Fun.
Swami's	01/21/04 7:30 am - 10:00 am	2 - 3' some + Large swell of two days ago just a memory. New medium sized west swell filling in a bit. High tide of 6.5' hurting it though. Once the tide peaked and started pulling out around 8 it became surfable again with the inside dishing up some fun waves. Real light crowd made for a fun session.
Swami's	01/19/04 6:30 am - 9:00 am	6 - 8' some 10 - 12'+ Big. That's all I can say. A 6.5' high tide wasn't even slowing it down. What seemed to be small in the dark was just macking. Took out the 6'10" and needed it. Amazing how the crowd thins when it starts getting pretty big. Surfed the inside of the peak, which was a couple of feet overhead no problem, with just a few guys. Got some amazing waves. Watched some amazing rides, especially a few guys like Skip and Mark who just have the big outside tube wired. Tide started pulling out and corner started pitching a few but tricky. Caught a head high one in on the inside - that's how big it was. Excellent.
Swami's	01/18/04 6:30 am - 9:00 am	4 - 6' some 8+ New swell on the rise. A fat high tide of about 6' early at 5 in the morning helping create some big long lines. The peak just breaking at first but sat a tad inside of everyone else and caught some good bombs that slipped through the pack. Shaun Thomson out ripping it up. Tide shifted quickly and the corner started popping a bit with some quick cover ups. Tide really started moving out around 8 making the corner pretty slow for some reason and struggled to get a good one in towards the end of the session although the peak was still firing up if you could get one in the mad dog crowd. Good.
Church's	01/17/04 6:30 am - 10:00 am	3 - 6' some + Had had it with the crowd at Swami's. Decided to try to surf somewhere that would hold the size but wouldn't have such a ravenous morning crew. Blasted up to Church's and was rewarded with some pretty decent and uncrowded(at first light) surf. Tide a bit fat when I first paddled out but some of the bigger waves lining up really nice along the inside point. Caught some good carvable waves that would wind into the bay where as the tide started dropping a few tubes were popping up. Managed to get a nice clean cover up through here. Tide started dropping more and then the crowd was really getting silly. Lower tide was making the outside slow down a lot as the swell seemed to be losing steam. wind picked up and found myself trying to get a good one in. Pretty fun session.
Swami's	01/16/04 7:00 am - 10:00 am	4 - 6' some 8-10'+ Swell started filling in late Thursday night and really started coming on in the morning. Decided to take out the 6'6" because it looked a bit slow and wobbly. Still not sure if this was the right call but the board handled the size. The corner was busting off some pretty solid but sectiony waves. Had to be choosy. Caught a massive corner bomb that completely stood up on the reef. Pulled a huge cuttie off the top that got the adrenaline going. Got a pretty decent tube also. Tide started really moving out and shifting things around as the swell was just beginning to mack as the crowd started to reach nuclear proportions. Decided to catch a biggie outside because I caught a good one off the peak earlier but instead got a good ass kicking from a botched late drop and blew out an earplug. I was swept into the corner somehow managed to get a good head high one in. Very solid.
Swami's	01/14/04 7:00 am - 10:00 am	2 - 3' some + Swell dropped like a stone overnight. Just some warbly wind swell leftovers. Some crackable waves through the inside between the mush. Tide started pulling out and it got a bit better for awhile with some really racy little sections on the corner. OK but fun.
Swami's	01/13/04 7:00 am - 10:00 am	4 - 6' some 8'+ Swell shifting directly west and bigger over night. Some serious surf with it looking like a mini Sunset Beach. Best Swami's I've seen since the freak south swell of mid-November. Sets on the outside going well overhead pushing in the 8 - 10' range. Freakin' crowded with the peak close to unmanageable (everyone and their mother out from junior wannabe pros to old rippers, seeing that their local breaks can't handle this type of swell - at least their were no longboards!). Surfed my new 6'10" for the first time ever and after two waves had it nailed. Caught a bomb off the peak and then settled in on the corner the rest of the session getting some very good waves and chucking a good amount of spray with the pintail. Had to be patient but the waves were definitely worth the wait. Very good.
Swami's	01/12/04 7:00 am - 10:00 am	3 - 6' some + New west west southwest swell filling in at about 255º - 265º. A very good direction for Swami's and North County in general. Very inconsistent but swell pretty clean and powerful. The ones that were coming through were gems. Caught some solid waves off the corner that were opening up for some big fans. Surfed the 6'6". which was a little to much board but a few waves needed the rail. Tide filling in and slowing it down a bit but swell just supposed to build through out the day. Pretty fun.
Swami's	01/11/04 6:30 am - 9:00 am	2 - 3' some 4'+ A bit more west wind swell. Some double bubbles on the inside actually producing some rippable juice as the tide filled in. Finally got out of the water with a satisfied feeling. First day wearing booties and needing them. Water a mind blowing 56 degrees.
Swami's	01/10/04 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 3' some 4' More west but junky as hell today. A bit more cross giving it a bit more to hack at but still in the weak zone. The weekend goobers on full alert also. Caught a couple good ones that lined up for some solid cracks but a lot just soft round housable stuff.
Swami's	01/09/04 7:00 am - 11:00 am	2 - 3' some 4+ New west southwest swell but at a short interval. Clean but very weak. 6' high tide playing a factor. Nothing worse than a little size with no power. Still managed to get some roundies in but the lack of power was making for a somewhat frustrating session when all you want to do is open up. Still managed to scrape a few fun ones together seeing I was out for quite awhile.