surf

January 2006

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Location Date/Time Conditions
OB Jetty 01/31/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
3 - 4'+ Lingering north swell and some northwest wind swell in the water. Tide coming off a low at 4 so wasn't too high at dawn. Some really nice set waves breaking way outside and wrapping through to the inside sandbar. Not real hollow but plenty of face to work with. Caught about 6 smokers back to back and then the tide started creeping in and really shifted the lineup further inside and softer. Still a few to be had but with the fading swell, conditions were degrading quickly. Fun early.
PB Point 01/30/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
3 - 5' Very steep north swell in the water. Had some size but the steep angle creating waves that were sweeping a bit wide across the point and Hermo. Bigger waves breaking deeper were the call. Caught a couple good ones early when the tide wasn't too high that wrapped all the way past the stairs. Most waves though, were steep drops followed by a fade into the channel. Still, it was fun and the crowd was nice and light.
Newbreak 01/29/06
10:00 am - 12:30 pm
1 - 4' Still some swell in the water and supposedly a new small pulse of north. Tide coming off a monster 7 footer at 8:30 so headed down after the tide started sucking out. Was a bit spotty at first with just sets showing but the tide was moving fast and there was a nice window with just me and another dude reaping the benefits of the tide lowering just enough to turn it on. Pack arrived, tide started sucking out hard and things fell apart. OK.
PB Point 01/28/06
7:00 am - 9:30 am
2 - 4' Swell really faded overnight but cleaned up a bit. Coming off a super high tide at 7:30 things started to come together over the boils for some small but lined up waves. Crowd a little thick today maybe because it was the weekend but still enough waves to go around. OK.
PB Point 01/27/06
6:30 am - 7:30 am
4 - 5'+ New consistent medium period northwest swell. Pretty consistent and two other guys out. A little sloppy from some outer winds but the waves that were lining across the boils were good and crackable. A few lining all the way through but most fading at the top of the point. A few inside reforms pretty whackable too. Fun.
Hanneman's 01/24/06
6:30 am - 7:30 am
2 - 4' Long period north west looks to have peaked yesterday afternoon and swung much more north. Some inconsistent but decent lefts on the medium that were a tad sectiony but some were lining well for some big roundies. Water seemed to be in the low fifties with air hovering in the forties it was pretty cold. OK.
OB Jetty 01/23/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
2 - 4' Long period north west in the water. Tide medium and going out. Some icy conditions with stiff offshores. Some inconsistent waves swinging wide off the jetty. Not real hollow but walling pretty well on the ones hitting the sandbar. Just me and a couple heads out for about a half hour so that was nice. Crowd picked up a bit but not too much of a problem as I hung inside a bit more and caught some nice swingers. Fun.
Newbreak 01/22/06
6:00 am - 9:30 am
2 - 4' New bump in wind swell and some new but very inconsistent wind swell. Tide medium going to a 1.5 footer so tide favorable. Some consistent wind swell with just a few heads out. Wave choice was key in getting a good one as many were mushing out but the ones that wer lining were nice and rippable and of course a few tubes to be had. Tide seemed to turn and lull it out so a few heads went in so just me and two other guys sharing. Very pleasant indeed.
Swami's 01/21/06
6:00 am - 8:00 am
2 - 4' Major decline in swell overnight. Just left over wind swell and some inconsistent long period north west. Some fun ones early but the swell evaporated before our eyes and became near flat by 8:00 am witht the tide bottoming out. OK while there was waves.
Swami's 01/20/06
6:30 am - 8:00 am
3-5 some 6+' Wind swell from a clearing front the day before mixed with some pretty solid underlying ground swell. Waves standing up pretty good off the peak on the medium tide with a light crowd so was actually able to nab some waves outside. Some barrels to be had as well as the bigger sets were dredging off the reef. Moved inside and caught some nice corners that had some pretty crackable sections as the tide started pushing. Fun.
Swami's 01/16/06
6:30 am - 9:00 am
3-5 some 6+' Really hellacious winds from a clearing front on Saturday and Sunday had the ocean hacked up pretty good. Lots of wind swell with an underlying ground swell but conditions less than ideal with the high tide slowing the wind swell down. A few good sets winding through the point but a lot of sectiony mush as well. Managed to pick off some decent sized sets that would line so no complaints..
Swami's 01/14/06
6:30 am - 8:30 am
2 - 3' some 5' New west swell in the water. Not real big but clean. Hide tide had some good corners breaking deep. some fun waves but the crowd got a bit thick and the 6' plus high tide bogging things down towards peak. Fun but nothing spectacular.
Hermo 01/10/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
2 - 3' some 5' Was supposed to be bigger today but I think the swell peaked yesterday. A bigger pack on it and pretty inconsistent. Me and a coworker were the first ones out and had it to ourselves for about 15 minutes. Lefts a bit better today with the rights a bit flat but still some fun ones. Got too crowded and soft with the tide filling rapidly. OK.
Hermo 01/10/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
2 - 3' some 5' New steep north west ground swell. Inconsistent and not that big but not too many people out and conditions clean. Some fun left and right peaks good for a couple of schwacks. Tide pushing hard and kind of shutting Hermo down. Went in through the point where it was liking the sets and the pushing tide. Caught a nice one in. Fun.
Swami's 01/09/06
6:00 am - 10:00 am
2 - 3' some 5' Pretty much just left over west swell and a lot more wind swell in the water. Not very big and not very powerful on the high tide. A few insiders that were good for some roundies and a few sets but those were being dogged by the long boards who seem to materielize the minute this place gets below 6 feet. Had a gift of a set wave. OK.
Swami's 01/08/06
6:00 am - 10:00 am
3 - 6' some 8' Knew that I wasn't get a repeat performance of yesterday. Too much wind swell in the water and a dense fog limiting visibility. Hard to line up a first but it was coming off a pretty good high so was catching some decent but sloppy double ups on the inside. The tide was draining fast so sat on the wedge corner and nabbed some decent waves but nothing like the day before. Still fun though.
Swami's 01/07/06
6:00 am - 9:30 am
4 - 6' some 8 - 10' Swell had really built in during the day before. Straight west and very consistent. Swami's easily looking overhead in the dark. Tide coming off a high and going to about a 2 footer at 10:00 am. Just unreal, thats all I can say about this session. Swami's was about as good as it gets. Super lined up, hollow, and extremely long and rippable walls. Scored some unreal waves with some solid tubes. Crowd was weirdly light too - don't get it. Excellent.
Newbreak 01/06/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
4 - 6' some 8' Tides had started to get lower in the mornings so I decided to head down to the Cliffs thinking that the swell was on the decline before a new west was supposed to fill in later in the day. Got down in the dark still and couldn't judge really how big it was but it was booming. Looked as if the new swell was already filling in. Just a few heads out and the current was ripping straight out sea so plenty of waves to go around if you were in position. Some pretty sizable waves for Nubes (almost maxing out) coming through with some thick lips and walls and of course as the tide drained out some barrels to be had. Caught a bunch of waves swinging through the inside as the current was ripping quickly out so was nabbing what you could get when it was there. Caught one of the better waves I've had all winter - a nice thick tube through the inside ledge. Nice. On the walk back the channel between Abbs and Sub was mostly closing out - could only imagine how big its been down here lately.
Swami's 01/05/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
4 - 6' some 8' A new solid swell supposed to be filling in but it looks as if its too north. Still some solid waves peeling through but inconsistent. Took out the 6'8" thinking it was going to be bombing but it was a fun choice anyhow being able to get in early and make some wide sections. Caught a couple of nice ones off the corner that were jacking and super slappable. Crowd became a problem again around 7 or so but it was fun nonetheless.
Swami's 01/04/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
5 - 7' some 8'+ Still sizable but definitely on the decline. Much cleaner than yesterday but still a bit of residual wobble. Pretty rippable and working well off the peak were I sat early and caught quite a few waves for a change. Crowd quickly multiplied as I was ready to get. Fun.
Swami's 01/03/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
6 - 7' some 10' After yesterday's hell winds out of the south the ocean was still pretty mixed up. A decent ground swell under all the lump though rearing its ugly head on the outside. Paddled out and sat with the few heads that wanted it on the peak. Caught a small bomb and proceeded to hang just off the peak to get those ones that were lining up a bit better but there were some ugly looking waves jacking up and throwing some big tubes - you just had to choose wisely as a few guys did. I caught a few good solid ones but needed more time to get the quota up. Still fun though.
Scripps's 01/02/06
10:00 am - 12:30 pm
4 - 5' some 6'+ Major front moved in late Sunday afternoon with howling south winds and rain. Same conditions in the morning so knew the call was Scripp's. Not too crowded at first as the tide was filling in. Some fun but shifty peaks popping up and down the beach but had to be choosy because quite a few closing out. As the tide started filling in the south wind started ripping about 30 mph sideshore to offshore. The subsequent local wind swell was mixing with the north creating some crazy tubing peaks on the inside sandbars. Hard to get but well worth it if you nabbed a good one. Crowd became ridiculous and a bit dangerous but still managed to nab a few solid rights. Fun but i've seen it better.
Swami's 01/01/06
10:00 am - 12:30 pm
4 - 5' some 6'+ Another really high tide at 10 so slept in for a change. After the rain of the night before not a puff of wind and the waves were squeaky clean and silky. Couldn't believe my luck as there were just a few heads surfing the peak as I paddled out. Beautiful waves lining up all the way through and super rippable. These waves were just a lot of fun. Big bottom turns, gouges and roundies the call. People started clueing in around noon but by then i was done. Super fun.