surf

march 2002

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Swami's	03/23/02 10:00 am - 11:00 am	2 - 4' Really clean, inconsistent south swell with a tad of west mixed in which wasn't really showing a whole lot. First time back in the water and immediately realized it was too soon. Some real soreness still if direct pressure applied to the xiphoid by the board, so I was paddling around like a lame duck completely paranoid of reinjury. Waves were fun although a bit soft even with the minus tide. Did catch some nice ones through the inside that lined up and had a few lips for some whacks until flattening out way inside. Definitely wasn't a 100% out there just because I felt I couldn't paddle well at all. Felt more like 50%. Going to take one more week off if I don't go completely cuckoo sitting on the sidelines.
Swami's	03/12/02 10:00 am - 11:00 am	1 - 3' Really clean, but the new swell nowhere in sight. A few sets hitting the inside for a couple whacks but overall just dribble. Was feeling good about the chest soreness until I sat up from paddling back out and "pop," I felt something move and knew it was the same area. Immediately went in and had a few people look at it in the parking lot and freak out because it looked like a rib was protruding or something. Went to the emergency room and after three hours it was determined I didn't break anything but may have popped off my xiphoid process at the bottom of the sternum. Great.
Swami's	03/09/02 7:30 am - 8:00 am	1 - 3' Much cleaner today but close to being complete dribble. Luckily a few lined up insiders made the quick session worthwhile. Way too many people out for the conditions.
Swami's	03/08/02 10:30 am - 12:30 pm	2 - 3' some 4+ Nice south wind on the wind swell that was generated by the storm passing through, so pretty junky when I first pulled up. Tide dropping quick and wind on the slack after about an hour, so conditions improved vastly with some actual sections to hit off the peak and the inside was working a bit here and there but still pretty junky. Selection was key - you would either get a nice smackable wall or a complete dribbler. Managed to scrape together quite a few ledgy little waves on the inside thanks to the minus tide. Nothing steller, but better than anything we have had in over a week.
Reed St.	03/02/02 8:30 am - 10:00 am	1 - 2' some + Pretty dribbly. Checked out OB first and the Jetty was almost doing it so moved on into PB. Medium tide wind swell looked half way rippable. Damn farmer's market going on so hard to park but manage to finagle a spot. Get out and the waves turn immediately to hide tide mush. Just terrrible dribble with a nasty rip so was constantly paddling. Managed to get a whackable left and right but that was the highlight of over 1 and hlf hours. Towards the end of the session notice my sternum is pretty sore, which it had been the last time I surfed. Looks like I damaged the tissue around it with all my frivoulous paddling for nothing, with the area swelling up to the size of a large egg. Ouch.