surf

may 2001

» surf archives

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Blacks	05/29/01 6:00 am - 7:00 am	1 - 2' Little wind swell and the wind all ready blowing at about 6:30. Fortunately no one out. Surfed a bitty little left at middle peak for about a half an hout until two guys joined me. Pretty weak.
Blacks	05/27/01 8:00 am - 10:00 am	1 - 2' + Very small southern hemi pulse making for almost flat conditions. Marine layer thick and ugly. Word must of been out so there wasn't too many people partaking in the the little left wedges at north peak. Marine layer has been blowing all week and all it took was a half an hour for it to start blowing and it became terrible.
Blacks	05/22/01 6:00 pm - 7:30 am	2 - 3' + Small south pulses still pushing through. Not the best form but there was some zippy lefts to be had. A bit of a north wind giving it a tad of ruffle but nothing too bad. Real fast hits with a dump section at the end. Pulled on top of one and floated across the curtain for awhile. Haven't pulled one of those in years.
Bird Rock	05/20/01 3:30 pm - 5:00 pm	2 - 3' + South still hanging in but I think it definitely peaked yesterday. Very inconsistent and once again to many people for to little swell. Had things to do in the morning so waited for the tide to turn in the afternoon. A little more tide would have helped maybe? Sets were not lining up all the way through - kind of peaking and fading for a few roundies. Caught one good wave inside at Ziggy's that popped up when I was paddling back out that just zipped along the inside ledge beautifully. Couldn't repeat the quality of that wave for the rest of the session. Struggled to get in and of course the minute I finally get in, a 5 wave set lit up the inside with no one on it. Classic.
Uppers	05/19/01 9:30 am - 12:00 pm	3 - 6' + New south filling in nicely up here. A tad bit too south from about 180 making for extremely fast waves and a few close outs but overall the form was pretty good but I wouldn't call it epic. A bit fat from the tide when I first paddled out and felt a little out of sync, especially since I haven't surfed here in about a year. Took about half an hour to get in the groove and pick of some really fun waves when the tide started dropping. At first I was looking for the larger sets that were swinging wide. Corner wide stopped breaking good and moved over to the peak with everyone else but the crowd wasn't too bad - I've seen worse here. Caught one set that was a big drop and flattened out but I had enough speed to connect with the next peak and rocketed through the point hitting huge in the sweet spot. Drop in, round house, wack, wack, wack. Lots of rippable waves making for one of the best sessions I have had in a while.
Swami's	05/16/01 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3' + The south is supposed to peak today but these swells are so south that almost all of San Diego county isn't pulling it in well. Some real fun wedges over kiddie bowl on the high tide that were super clean and rippable but were a bit insonsistent (I'm tired of making this statement). Fun but nothing epic.
Blacks	05/15/01 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 4' Another day of very inconsistent south swell. Nice and glassy but there was a bit of a cross in it from a small windswell. A lot of close outs but there were some left corners holding up around middle and north peak with a decent right off middle. Got to practice my backside dump floater quite a bit. Not great but pretty fun.
Bird Rock	05/13/01 1:30 pm - 3:30 pm	1 - 4' Looks like a new south from about 180-190 degrees - too south for San Diego. Swell not fully filled in so very inconsistent again. Lots of waiting around and patience is key in these conditions or you could snap. Not too many guys when I paddled out but after about a half hour the lineup was overbooked with about 20 heads jockeying for the few sets rolling through. Caught a couple nice ones off the peak at first and then moved inside and got a nice double up all the way through into Ziggy's. Need more west in these swells.
Black's	05/12/01 9:30 am - 11:30 am	3 - 5' some + Real clean today with the southern hemi peaking. Not much wind from some tropical moisture and marine layer overhead. More waves when they would come through but still pretty inconsistent. South Peak completely closed out and crowded. Wandered down to North peak and the left was working with just a few guys on it. Not real hollow but a fast rippable face. Real fun.
Black's	05/11/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 4' Inconsistent and extremely crowded for the dawn patrol. Some really lined up lefts coming through with the sets feeling the canyon and having good form. Lots of jockeying going on for the sets that were coming every 3-4 minutes, so there was a lot of waiting around and frustration seething in the lineup. Managed to scrape a few good ones and get a lot of close outs. Still the ones you get make you keep on coming back for more.
Swami's	05/05/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	1 - 2' Looked like Friday night it started coming on from the south that all the swell predicting gurus had pegged to be a biggy on Saturday. Sadly it was not to happen. I do not know how these guys predict southern hemis but their accuracy is way off on them compared to the north and west swells. Looking at about one to two foot around town and even in Carlsbad it was struggling to push 3 foot. Looked for an hour for this elusive swell. Maybe Trestles was good? Anyhow, was fed up and paddled out at clean but piddly Swami's. No consolation prize.
P.B. Point	05/03/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 4' Swell tracking even more north today and looking a bit cleaner. Decided that the further north the smaller it would get so stuck around town, which has the best chances of pulling in swell from the north. Not a soul around at daybreak. Point was a bit slow from real the northerly direction but the sets were lining up over the boils for some lip to hit. Mostly round housy however, but with only three other guys joining me, well worth it.
Swami's	05/02/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 4' A big junky north wind swell creeping into Swami's a bit inconsistently but with the push creating some fun lines through the inside and the odd bigger set hooking up all the way through. Buoy's were huge on the outside and in typical fashion for this time of year, showing a lot smaller on the beaches. Pretty good at first until the dreaded Catalina Eddy started throwing a nice stiff south wind on it. Figures it was sheet glass the last two mornings when it was small.