surf

may 2003

» surf archives

Location Date/Time Conditions
Newbreak 05/31/03
6:30 am - 9:30 am
2 - 3' some + Combo of southern hemi and west wind swell keeping things playful. A bit soft and sectiony from the low tide. A few rippers to be had but a wee bit crowded - exactly what I came down here to avoid. Anyhow, as the tide filled in the waves got a bit more organized over the reef with a bit more face to crank on. A few rare tubes but I was unable to connect with one. Around 9:00 everyone split and it was just me and another guy sharing some southern hemi sets where I got my best waves. Kind of fun.
Swami's 05/30/03
6:30 am - 9:30 am
2 - 4' Last of the swell I missed because I was in Phoenix for work. Oh well. Still some sets coming through on the low tide. Tide started shifting in however and really softened it up. Really needed more tide so struggled for about an hour to get anything decent. Tide started filling in and then the inside corner started working well for some good roundies and hitties. Pretty fun but crowded.
Swami's 05/27/03
6:00 am - 8:00 am
2 - 3' Lots of small junk wind swell in the water mixing with a new southern hemi. Looking good at first but then realizing it was a bit soft. Some double ups on the inside were good, you just had to be a choosy mother. OK.
Swami's 05/26/03
6:00 am - 8:30 am
1 - 2' Clean little mix of west wind swell and a touch of south. Ultra crowded - summer is almost here apparently. A few little thwackers on the inside corner but pretty soft overall. Lost my board and somebody ran it over or something to cause a nice indention in the rail. Blah.
Uppers 05/22/03
7:30 am - 10:00 am
1 - 3' My buddy Morgan gave me a ring and said he was going to Trestles and wanted to know if I wanted to go. I said sure even knowing there was just a trace amount of south in the water. Dense fog keeping things glassy when we arrive and it seems like there is some fun lines pushing through. Unfortunately the minute we hit the water the south wind really picks up. Added with the tide going out the waves turned into complete mush. Really struggled to get anything resembling a good wave. We stuck it out however and the wind finally died and there were a few 2 footers off the corner that had some face. Pretty poor.
Black's 05/21/03
7:00 am - 9:00 am
2 - 3' some 4'+ Much better today. Small southern hemi hanging in there but inconsistent. No wind swell mucking it up so super clean, lined up, and hollow. Real low tide helping things out making for some sick top to bottom waves. Around south peak and mid peak lots of waves split peaking and fast with the lefts longer. Haven't had so many backside barrels in a long while. Couple good front side tubes to be had also. Pretty rippable on the ones not throwing open wide. Good.
Black's 05/20/03
6:30 am - 8:30 am
1 - 3' some 4' A trace of southern hemi and still a little bit of west wind swell. Pretty inconsistent but sheet glassy with a dense fog. Sandbars still way below par for Black's. Low tide helping throw some corners out but the majority of waves close outs. Still some fun lefts and the odd right to be had. Mostly just drop in and run but a few lefts opened up for some cracks. OK.
Swami's 05/19/03
6:30 am - 9:30 am
1 - 3' a few + Small, inconsistent, medium period west swell. Real clean and glassy but pretty small. Waves lining up off the peak for a few good cracks. Tide filled in and the corner had some good zippy waves that were opening up well for some hitties. OK.
Swami's 05/17/03
6:30 am - 8:30 am
1 - 3' a few + Background south swell and a little bit of wind swell. Super low tide creating some peaks. Kind of slow and a bit weak. Tide filled in and the corner had a few lined up but mushy waves good for a couple of turns. Super crowded which took most of the fun out of what little surf that was coming through. Passable.
Newbreak 05/16/03
6:30 am - 8:30 am
1 - 3' a few + Background south swell and a little bit of wind swell creating small mixed up surf. Clean conditions, with a second day in a row of glass in the morning. A few good waves but pretty soft. Kind of doubling up on the low tide and warbling in sections across the reef. Got a couple good rippers but overall pretty uninspiring especially once the tide filled in. OK.
OB Jetty 05/14/03
6:30 am - 8:30 am
2 - 3' a few + South fading, fading, but not quite gone. A bit textured and sectiony but still a few good ones lining up for some solid cracks. Wind came up and started blowing out of the west while the tide filled in and swell dropped effectively killing it. OK.
Terra Mar (Canons) 05/13/03
7:30 am - 10:00 am
2 - 3' some 4' South fading so went as far north as I dared before feeling obligated to drive to Trestles. Checked Swami's which was almost flat and then Tamarack which was maybe 2 foot. Was pretty bummed and started driving south again and noticed waves pushing through Terra Mar. Lots of waves. Pretty consistent and decent size considering everywhere else was pretty flat - one of those swells I guess. Anyhow, on peak high there was a nice wedge on the inside reef. Tricky wave that is favored by longboarders because not every wave focuses on the reef and when that happens it's a slopey, crumbly, and unpredictable wall. When it does focus on the reef the wave is kind of a scaled down version of Swami's with a nice long rippable wall. On the right swell and tide I've actually seen this place reel barrels. Well some good roundhousable waves to be had with the odd face to crack. Sheet glassy and light crowd so it was pretty fun.
OB Jetty 05/12/03
6:30 am - 9:00 am
2 - 3' some 4' South had filled in more overnight. The sandbar at the jetty is in top notch form from the late rains this year. Jetty sucking up the steep south swell and then the sandbar focusing it producing waves much bigger than anywhere for miles around. Some real rippable wedges when I first paddled out during the peak of the tide push. A few tight bowls here and there but the better waves were nice jetty bounce wedges for speed runs. Pretty uncrowded for awhile and then a whole pack arrived. Stuck it out for awhile and got some more good ones but the tide sucking out was making it sectiony so went in. Real good.
Swami's 05/11/03
6:00 am - 9:00 am
1 - 3' Swell really south; probably about 180º and not very big. Just sets pushing through every five to ten minutes but just a few heads out and I had the inside all to myself almost the whole time. Small but once the tide started moving out had really zippy form through the inside. I knew the small crowd couldn't last and a bunch of long board goons paddled out, so it was over. Fun but nothing great.
Newbreak 05/10/03
6:30 am - 9:00 am
2 - 4' First clean morning since last Friday. Light offshores slackening to a sheet glass. Ah, so nice. Too bad the surf wasn't fully cooperating. Soft, semi-organized wind swell. Real soft and sectiony at first but once the tide started pulling out it got a bit better to where there was actually some face to crack and a few tubes - you just had to pick the right wave. Not bad, but not real good, but better than what has been on offer all week.
Swami's 05/06/03
6:00 am - 7:30 am
3 - 4' some 5' A pretty good south running combined with a small amount of wind swell kind of chunking it up. Semi glassy conditions even though a south wind was blowing. Surfed the corner and got some pretty good waves at first. Some sections just chucking over the inside reef on the low tide. Was a bit behind the peak on the first few waves but once I figured it out got some good waves to crank on and a sick tube. Wind came up strong quickly and just blew it to bits though. Fun while it lasted.
Newbreak 05/05/03
8:00 am - 10:00 am
3 - 4' some 5+ Completely trashed this morning from a sickly mix of short period slop. Could see the new southern hemi underneath but almost completely washed out. Tide too low when I first paddled out. Semi victory at sea conditions. Not too hot at first but then the tide slowly started filling in and smoothing things out for some rippable waves through the inside. Got completely shacked on one from behind the peak. Pretty sloppy but fun.
Swami's 05/04/03
6:30 am - 9:00 am
2 - 4' A lot cleaner but definitely more wind swell than anything so lacking that oomph. All right on the low with the corner dishing up some warbly bowls and peaks good for the bashing for about and hour. Tide started filling in and shut that down while I struggled to get one in with a thickening crowd and mushy conditions. So, so.
Swami's 05/03/03
6:30 am - 9:00 am
3 - 5'+ Strom hit at about 3 in the morning with stiff south winds. South swell still running with a west southwest wind swell on top. Wind had died around dawn but was blowing south east by the time I hit the water. Pretty shifty and junky. Some waves jacking and then mushing or mushing and then jacking. Was hard to get a cleany. Managed to squeak a few good ones off the peak that would line up a bit for a whack or two. Ended up whacking my leg good after an end section hit and board bail. Thought I hit my board but on further inspection no damage so must of been the reef. Challenging.
Swami's 05/02/03
6:00 am - 9:30 am
2 - 5' New reinforcement southern hemi. Much more south so always a mixed bag at Swami's depending on the tide. Tide was low when I first paddled out so the corner was lining up good. As the tide moved in it started shifting more and softening up on the inside so headed out to the peak which was really coming on. Solid head high glass walls screaming through to middle peak. My 6'2" handling the juice pretty well and got some excellent waves. Started getting crowded so headed on back to the corner which was breaking again with a fuller tide and was pretty damn rippable. Caught a bunch there and finally went in with sore arms and back. Good.
Swami's 05/01/03
6:30 am - 8:30 am
1 - 3' Pretty much a carbon copy of yesterday but cleaner and the south containing a little more juice. Surfed the corner again and got some whackable waves while the tide was low. Tide started moving in and really softening it up but still holding up because there was a lot of west in the swell. Just a couple heads joining here and there. Pretty fun.