surf

may 2005

» surf archives

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Chalcedony St.	05/31/05 5:30 am - 6:30 am	1 - 2' Very small but clean wind swell. Not much push or juice to it so mostly just find the close out end section and whack. Poor.
Swami's	05/30/05 6:00 am - 8:00 am	1 - 2'+ Well after almost a week of flatness anything was welcome. Very small but consistent wind swell being joined by a smidgen of southern hemi. Fairly week but at least lined up. Crowd not too bad and the water is now pushing toward 67 degreeswhich makes the shitty sessions at least a bit more bearable. Poor.
Newbreak	05/24/05 5:30 am - 7:00 am	2 - 4' Lingering wind swell. A very low tide of -1.5 hampering conditions a bit with a lot of water swirling around the inside and ripping along the reef. Still some pretty surfable waves especially as the incoming tide started to smooth things out a bit. Caught some pretty smackable waves but the tube was pretty much eluding me all morning. Toe feeling much better with me surfing at about 80% full steam. Fun.
Newbreak	05/23/05 5:30 am - 7:00 am	2 - 4' Still quite a bit of swell in the water this morning. Mostly wind swell but some underlying ground swell too which were dishing up the better waves. Light crowd and not a frickin' long board in sight. Halleluiah! Kind of soft with the incoming tide but the better ones were lining up nicely for some vertical cracks even with the injured toe which has now morphed into a weird shade of red and purple but not swollen anymore. Fun.
Swami's	05/22/05 5:30 am - 7:30 am	2 - 4'+ Wind swell and ground swell still running with a new southern hemi in the mix. Much cleaner than the day before. Left second toe a bit swollen and purple looking but was able to surf albeit at about 70% with the tenderness going on. Inside not too crowded at first and caught a couple good ones. The peak looked pretty tasty so headed out there and somehow managed to snag a good set. Tried to replicate my good fortune but all I got was some clown landing on top of me after pulling out of a wave. I had a few choice words for the bozo who got quite defensive for his dip shit maneuver. The nerve of people. The amount of just downright ignorant jack asses surfing this place now is ruining the whole experience. They just keep on coming and it looks like there is no end in sight. Besides my couple of travails I had a good time but am seriously thinking of limiting my time here - it is just to frustrating.
Swami's	05/21/05 5:00 am - 9:00 am	3 - 5'+ Wind swell and ground swell filled in much more overnight. Only drawback was there was a ton of lump in the swell hampering the conditions a bit. A few good lines around mid peak and the corner but things didn't really start to happen until the tide filled in and smoothed things out. The inside became pretty rippable then. About three and half hours in I was getting pretty tired and I tripped over my toes getting up and jammed my left second toe pretty good. Continued to surf not thinking much of it but it was getting a little uncomfortable so went in. Fun besides the toe injury which became pretty black and blue later that day.
Swami's	05/20/05 5:00 am - 7:00 am	1 - 3'+ New north west wind swell/ground swell combo just barely starting to show. Inconsistent and kind of weak but as the morning progressed the sets got straighter and more powerful. A few insiders lining up nicely for some good cracks. OK.
Chelcedony St.	05/18/05 5:30 am - 7:30 am	2 - 4'+ Still lots of short period wind swell in the water with some southern hemi. Some sets going to head high. Still jumbled up quite a bit but surfable. Not a soul out at dawn and I had the lineup pretty much all to myself which was really nice. Mushy and sectiony but the waves were linking up going left and right with some of the rights peaking better. Lots of end section bashes going on with the odd lip crack. Fun.
Scripp's	05/17/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	2 - 4'+ Lots of short period wind swell in the water. Kind of a jumble but the higher tide at dawn had it smoothed out a bit. Ended up paddling out at Northside where a decent right peak was popping off every once in awhile with no one out. Had it to myself for about an hour as some guys slowly filtered out. Not enough to go around as the tide was pulling out hard and junking it up. OK.
Scripp's	05/15/05 6:30 am - 8:30 am	1 - 2'+ More small wind swell with a touch of southern hemi sneaking through. Looked all over the place and nothing looking surfable except Scripp's. Some fun little wedge peaks up and down the beach. Paddled out at the stairs at first but the crowd grew increasingly thick so ended up at the pier with just one other guy and shared some little wedges next to the pier that were alternating left and right. Fun.
Scripp's	05/13/05 5:30 am - 7:00 am	1 - 2'+ Small little wind swell running. Not real powerful but the low tide sandbars had some pretty good form so rippy little peaks. Nothing great but pretty surfable.
The Parking Lot	05/11/05 5:30 am - 7:30 am	2 - 3'+ Had my yearly fix of a break I used to surf an awful lot years ago. Lots of wind swell in the water. Scripp's was head high and jumbled at dawn, so with the low tide I thaught maybe Tourmo would be truning on. A few soft lines running along the outside sandbar good for some roundies and the odd lip. Was pretty uncrowded at first but then a ton of longboards all with begginer level skills infiltrated the lineup generally getting in the way. OK.
OB Jetty	05/09/05 5:30 am - 7:00 am	1 - 3'+ South swell on the decline big time with Some very inconsistnet sets. A negative low tide once again this morning allowing for a full dry walk into the lineup from the sandbar along the jetty. Pretty sectiony on peak low but as the tide filled in the jetty bounce had some fun little wedges popping for some good speed runs, lip cracks, and mini tubes. Just two other guys in the lineup early on making it that much more enjoyable. Fun.
Swami's	05/08/05 6:00 am - 9:00 am	2 - 4' South finally filled in over night but still very inconsistent. Negative low was actually making things interesting with some waves fully barreling over the inside ledge. Positioning was key however. Locked into some good ones on the corner as the tide started to push in but as the tide got fuller it seemed that the swell was past its peak and losing steam fast. Managed to get a few more decent ones but the crowd was getting thick and so I headed in. OK.
Swami's	05/07/05 8:00 am - 11:00 am	1 - 3' South swell supposedly on the way but the sets were looking extremely infrequent and weak. On top of that the wind was onshore out of the west, a negative low tide was exposing the reef, and a small scraggly wind swell was mucking it up. There was a glimmer of hope in that the tide would push, the wind might lay down and then the swell would fill in. It did this scenario a little bit but the waves were pretty weak still. Surfable with a few double ups on the inside. OK.
Swami's	05/03/05 5:30 am - 7:00 am	1 - 3' Small south swell combining with a touch of northwest wind swell creating little peaks. A bit on the soft side but a few double ups on the inside creating some fun sections to hit. OK.
Church	05/02/05 6:30 am - 10:00 am	2 - 4' South swell still showing energy so headed up to Church with a buddy from work. I have a DOD sticker now so was able to park right at the lineup but the rains have washed out the road so you have to come from San Onofre State Park road. Some fun rights busting in front of the trestle and running down the point. A bit sectiony and as the tide pulled out the lineup was a bit shifty and walled but good little speed burns through the very inside could be had. Swell really was on the fade as we were out but it was still kind of fun.