surf

november 2000

» surf archives

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Reed St.	11/30/00 6:30 am - 8:00 am	1 - 3' Small swell running and not looking to get bigger any time today. Predicted large west swell nowhere in sight. Fast little waves so choosing the right corner was essential. North wind putting a bit of texture but the morning sickness passed and it was sheet glass by the time I got out. A few lefts and a couple quirky little rights. Unspectacular.
Scripps	11/28/00 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3' Was going to do the death drive (hideous traffic coming back south between 7-10am) to Swami's this morning, but the buoys were showing a lot smaller than the day before, so decided with its small showing on bigger buoy readings on Saturday, to pass. Anyhow, Scripps was weak and closed out. Hard to tell what was going on with the thick fog. Decided to go out cause I think I saw some peaks. Real soft peaks near the pier but very very mushy - couldn't get antything going. Everything else was pretty much closed out and soft. Managed to sneak a few left slaps and got a nice fast right on the way in with a nice dump section floater so at least I had that good last wave feeling. Overall a weak session.
PB Point	11/27/00 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 4' +New dose of real steep north swell. It seems a lot of places around here just don't break real well on this angle with a lot of the juice sucked out of the swell from the wrap around Point Conception and the Channel Islands. The point was pretty slow all around with just big round house type waves. A few waves were lining up with a bit more face but it was hard trying to line those up. Light crowd made it bareable otherwise it would have been pretty mediocore.
Newbreak	11/26/00 2:00 pm - 4:00 pm	2 - 3' + Swell hitting the Cliffs just all right at a steep north angle and warbly. Nubes was kinda of weird and slow with so much north and a real low tide. Many of the waves would slowly wrap on the reef or quickly fire across the reef unmakably. There were of course some stand out waves that were connecting beautifully but a thick pack was making for slim pickings all around. Did manage to get a few double bubbles on the inside to mid reef that were nice and got a scorcher through the inside that left me standing on the reef in shin high water while the next wave rolled through and so not to ruin the guy's wave I took it straight on the head. Boy my ass hurts. OK session.
Swami's	11/25/00 9:00 am - 10:30 am	2 - 3' + Swell looked big enough to be filling out Swami's well. Get up there and am dissapointed with smallish high tide conditions but it was razor sharp clean. Surfed the inside with a couple of kids and some lady who was ripping. The peak is a joke at this size with a crowd of bozos you wouldn't believe. Pretty fun but was expecting some juice off kiddy bowl.
OB Jetty	11/24/00 10:00 am - 12:00 pm	3 - 5' + Hoping to have a repeat of yesterday. Swell much bigger and grounded making for lots of water pushing through the jetty. With a higher tide and bigger surf the rip was really screwing things up. After about an hour of catching some real thumpers the tide dropped enough to mellow it out and started to get some real good hollow and extremely fast waves. Wasn't as good as yesterday but it was just me, my brother, and Sean surfing it, so well worth the less than epic conditions.
OB Jetty	11/23/00 10:00 am - 12:00 pm	2 - 4' Pretty good windswell running and the jetty was just sucking it up wonderfully. Swell and tide were combining to form perfect race track spinners over the sand bars and when the tide dropped some more it became real hollow, although a bit more closed out. Tons of good waves pushing through combined with light crowd making for one of the best sessions I have had in a long time.
PB Point	11/21/00 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3' some + Pretty steep north west filling in. Slow but workable waves through the inside improving when the tide dropped. Mostly surfed the corner while the sets weren't connecting well. Small fun ones. Hermo looked pretty decent at about shoulder to head high but couldn't get motivated to paddle over.
Blacks	11/19/00 3:30 pm - 5:00 pm	1 - 2' some + Small and super inconsistent north ground swell. Lulls of 5 - 10 minutes making for extremely frustrating conditions. Water in the high 50s, which I wasn't prepared for, making me stiff as a board. Some solid sets moving in every once and awhile but a pretty large pack waiting for it deep in south peak with only about two or three waves per set with most closing out. Just not enough to go around. I managed to cacth a couple good closeouts that let me get an end section but overall it pretty much sucked. Then to top things off some hoodlum stole my wetsuit from while drying from my garage. Unbelievable.
Scripps	11/15/00 7:00 am - 8:00 am	1 - 3 Small west windswell groomed to close out perfection this morning by real stiff offshores. A few corners here and there but it was lucky hunting.
Reed St.	11/14/00 7:00 am - 8:00 am	1 - 3 Super inconsistent south swell mixed with a little west. Closed out and freezing as cold. Water 60. Air 40. No joke. Some left corners to be had on the high tide and believe me I was the only one within a mile willing to brave it.
Blacks	11/12/00 11:00 am - 1:00 pm	2 - 3 A new south that was deep and very inconsistent with lingering wind swell creating mush conditions. Very crowded for midday also. sign o the times. My brother and his bud Sean from Central Cal joined me and they reveled in the warm water. That was definitely their highlight for the day. A few fun waves but for the most the lefts were holding up a little better than the rights before shutting down.
Newbreak	11/11/00 12:30 pm - 2:30 pm	1 - 3 Mostly wind swell with a litle bit of south ground. Weak overall and fading fast. A few fun one lining up over the low tide reef at first with little crowd. Became lack luster and crowded after the tide started to really suck out. Almost had to paddle in on the low tide lull.
Reed St.	11/08/00 7:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3 Some lingering wind swell but mostly inconsistent ground swell from a pretty steep angle. None of the beach breaks really handling it well with the majority of the waves closing out and the swell really not big enough for the reefs. There were some fun corners to be had - you just had to be patient. Clean light offshore conditions.
Chalcedony St.	11/07/00 7:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3+ Wind swell again and still not very good, but a strong offshore blowing. Pretty much too weak for the reefs and too closed out the beach breaks for anything real quality. Cliffs might have been good around midday medium tide but have to work. Water was extremely putrid here. Nonetheless, there were some fun corner lefts that I had all to myself.
Scripps	11/06/00 6:30 am - 7:30 am	2 - 3'+ Wind swell running from low off the coast. Kind of junky and closed out but light offshores holding up some nice peaks when you could find them. Heavy crowd as usual. Did catch one right that was memorable. Everything else seems to be a blur.
Blacks	11/05/00 7:00 am - 9:00 am	2 - 3' some 5+ Medium sized southern hemi running. Blowing pretty hard offshore holding up the waves a wee bit too much. Swell was inconsistent but when the sets were coming through they were pretty solid but not much face to work with. Tide started to shift and wind calmed down and the peaks started appearing. Some nice zippy 3 foot lefts and the odd right pushing through. Pretty rippable and fun.
Blacks	11/02/00 6:30 am - 7:30 am	1 - 3' Buoys showing nothing but supposedly there was a small south running. Get down to bottom of trail and looks flat. Looks can be deceiving. Some very super clean, razor sharp south swell pushing through. Not the most consistent but perfect form. Very rippable 2 foot rights and lefts. Tide shifted just a wee bit around 7:30 and started closing it out but for that one hour it was real fun.