surf

november 2001

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Scripps	11/27/01 6:30 am - 7:30 am	2 - 3' Below freezing this morning. Time for booties almost. Some left over wind swell pushing through creating some fun soft peaks. Some long lefts between the stairs and the pier that were pretty smackable. Caught a few of these and went in quick as it seemed to be just fading quick. Was fine in the water but the minute my feet touched the ground it felt like walking on pins and needles. Cold.
Swami's	11/26/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3' + Cleaned up after the hell winds of Saturday and Sunday and was pretty presentable with a stiff offshore cleaning things up. High tide slowing things down but managed to get two real nice chest high waves off the peak to redeem Saturdays crappy session. Looking to drop all week with this strong high pressure.
Swami's	11/24/01 10:00 am - 12:00 pm	2 - 3' Swell dwindling mightily. A few good looking ones coming through so went out, although I noticed the wind had suddenly taken a shift to the south boding rain. Terrible. Not only were the waves weak, the wind whipped up and tattered it making it unsurfable. Got one good wave the whole session.
Swami's	11/22/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	4 - 6' Not as big as yesterday, more crowded, lumpy and mushy. Everyone trying to get some before turkey making things unmanageable, considering that the inside really wasn't working. Just the peak and mid peak offering waves. Surfed mid peak almost the whole session and caught some OK ones but nothing like yesterday. Consolation was getting a real nice one in.
Swami's	11/21/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	4 - 6' some 8+ Booming today and packed. Everyone knew this swell was going to hit and knew basically only Swami's can hold it. Not the cleanest swell and a bit inconsistent from the northerly direction but very solid. Some real good waves swinging wide but unpredictable where they were going to unload exactly. Got a few overhead rippers off the corner that just steamed through. Tried catching one off the peak where some waves were jacking at over 8 foot but the guys on the guns (which weren't needed by the way, I was very comfortable on a 6'6") were hogging. Finally caught one that backed off the peak a bit and it was insane. Caught some more on the inside and went in somewhat satisfied but knowing that Santa Barbara was probably all time.
Swami's	11/20/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3' Real clean this morning with a mix of upcoming northwest and a tad of south west ground swell in the water. Both swells pretty inconsistent. Some fun rippable waves swinging wide through the bowl. A few real good sets hitting the peak also. Nice to have the fog backed off as well where you can actually see more than 10 yards in front of you. Supposed to get macking later today.
Newbreak	11/18/01 12:00 pm - 2:00 pm	2 - 4' Decided to hit up the cliffs today figuring that on the medium tide and with football on it wouldn't be too crowded. Haven't surfed here since September and have missed the place. West swell still hanging in there but fading and probably will be gone by tomorrow. Two other guys out and some nice waves pushing through on the outside reef with the fuller tide. Not hollow just a nice lined up wall good for carving. Nice to surf with just a few people. Tide dropping quick and getting better but then all the 'boys' started showing up after being out for an hour. Caught a few more but crowd was getting thick so headed in.
Swami's	11/17/01 11:00 am - 1:00 pm	2 - 4' Swell still hanging in there and really razor sharp. Waited for the tide to turn around and drop really fast to sample some better waves on the low. Light breeze turning on and off for pretty much semi glass conditions the whole session. A little inconsistent at first but once the tide started dropping out it started turning on from outside all the way through kiddy bowl were I sat and picked off tons of carvable waves. Very tasty.
Swami's	11/16/01 6:00 am - 7:30 am	3 - 5' Pretty solid again this morning and a lot cleaner than Wednesday but also a bit more inconsistent. Lining up well through kiddy bowl and mid peak. Some extremely rippable waves coming through this morning. Caught a bunch of head high ones that lined up all the way through. Real fun. Heard it has been really good on the lower tides. Unfortunately I have to work.
Swami's	11/15/01 6:00 am - 7:30 am	2 - 3' + A lot smaller today but supposed to pick up this afternoon but really clean. Lots of round houses this morning with a few wackable lips on the sets.
Swami's	11/14/01 6:00 am - 7:30 am	3 - 5' Another pretty solid west swell. This one a bit chunky and warbly but plenty of fat waves on the high tide lining up good around head high through mid peak. Lots of fun waves coming through and with a pretty light crowd. Good for about an hour until the tide go really high and started mushing it out a bit.
Swami's	11/12/01 7:00 am - 8:00 am	3 - 5' Surprise west swell of about 265 degrees came up over night. Possibly generated from the storm off the coast because this was definitely not forecasted. Had no idea and was bummed I didn't know sooner because it was good. Best Swami's I've seen in about two months. Full tide but swell direction was so spot on it was peeling from the outside all the way through. Caught some really good walls that were carvable and had power. Saw some wide open tubes. If it was more consistent would call it epic and was bummed that I had to go to work.
Swami's	11/10/01 7:00 am - 10:00 am	1 - 3' Small pulsing south swell and a very faint background north west swell. Mainly the south swell showing and producing the best waves. Surfed the inside the whole time just patiently waiting for those waves that would swing wide. Form was good, especially after the tide dropped enough for it to start steepening up, and super glassy, but it was long waits between sets.
Black's	11/09/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 4' More wind swell today. After checking Swami's yesterday and it not even breaking and Scripps 4 foot walled out hell, I was getting a bit frustrated on scoring some decent waves when there is a bit of swell. Heard a rumor that Black's was good. Unfortunately it wasn't. Either walled out or mush. Some round house rights but real slow on the medium tide and a few lefts that were good for a couple backside roundies but that was about it. A light south wind further hampering conditions.
Swami's	11/04/01 6:30 am - 7:30 am	2 - 4' Swell dropped off the day before but rose in the afternoon slowly (missed a Cliffs sess for sure) unbeknowst to me. A lot junkier and more north and still very inconsistnet. Was hoping, since my afternoon was booked, that it would be decent mid tide Swami's early morning. So, so overall with it actullay getting better on the inside with more tide and the outside looking pretty poor. Although I thought it was a write off, it was actually pretty fun, with way inside throwing up a few steep walls.
PB Point	11/02/01 6:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3'+ Super clean little west swell. Very inconsuistent however and not real strong. Started getting better as the tide got a bit more full and allowed the lines to squeak over the inside corner for some two foot walls but most of the better waves were the sets over the boils through the inside corner if you could be patient and wait for them. Caught a couple of those that made it a worth while session. If the swell is like this tommorow it's going to be an unbearable zoo.
Scripps	11/01/01 6:30 am - 7:30 am	1 - 2' Ultra weak puss. Clean but zero power and freezing water. Were a few sets pushing almost three foot but those were every fifteen minutes or so and just one. No sight of that new swell.