surf

november 2002

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Rincon	11/29/02 10:00 am - 12:00 pm	2 - 4'+ Not as big or consistent as yesterday but still pretty good. Once again sat a bit wide in the cove letting guys take off to deep and just lightly stroking into perfect razor sharp peeling waves. Just got better as the tide dropped. Super suprisingly uncrowded considering it was Saturday. Pretty much just me a few long boarders and another short boarder having our picks. Real fun.
Rincon	11/28/02 1:00 pm - 4:00 pm	2 - 5'+ What a difference a day makes. Got back to Ventura around noon from SLO and made the mandatory check. Glassy, low tide, razor sharp barrels. sat wide in the cove almost all by myself catching the swing sets. Suprisingly light crowd. Tubes and speed runs. Some opening up for whacks but those the exception. Caught some very memorable waves today. One set in particular swinging wide that barreled on the take off, opened up for some serious carves, and then freight trained all the way through to the freeway were it completely pitted. Sandbar in the cove is top notch right now. Excellent.
Rincon	11/27/02 6:00 am - 9:00 am	2 - 4'+ Swell is here but incredibly windy. A low spinning down the coast creating hellish sideshore winds with gusts up to 30 + knots completely knocking the waves down. Still some power mowing through the cove every once in awhile feeling the point and lining up for some super fast, albeit junky waves. Was just praying the wind would die because it would be good so kept on battling. Towards the end of the session wind turned a bit more north and lightened up a bit. Finally started to get some decent waves. A few bombs rolling through the cove. Caught a freak 8 footer that was a complete speed run all the way to the freeway. Hopefully it will clean up tomorrow.
Rincon	11/26/02 1:30 pm - 4:00 pm	1 - 3' Turkey day swell already supposed to be showing but really not happening yet at all. Some piddly waves crumbling through the cove and some small wobbly pits breaking off Indicator and Rivermouth keeping it surfable but nothing stellar. Lots of people out thinking there was swell. Mainly just drop and pump through sections with the odd lip popping up. Pretty junky from the strong side shores pushing through Ventura and creating south east chop in the Santa Barbara Channel. A few rogue sets pushing though Indicator but too many people jockeying for position. Oh well maybe tomorrow.
Swami's	11/25/02 8:30 am - 10:30 am	2 - 3' After taking a pass yesterday was charged up to see a little bit of the supposed new ground swell hitting the buoys. Some clean little waves pushing through the inside at Swamis. Light crowd. Caught quite a few little rippers until the tide got a bit too high towards peak. Pretty fun while it lasted.
Swami's	11/23/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 4' Lots of junk. Yesterday's cleanliness just a memory. Fortunately the junky wind swell was adding to the meager amount of ground swell and creating little rippable pockets popping up here and there. Mostly just round house type waves but a few were throwing the steep lip for a couple hits. Pretty fun considering lots of guys taking a pass.
Swami's	11/22/02 6:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 4' Talk about a quick pulse. Started coming up overnight and then this morning was really good. Super clean and shoulder to head high. Excellent ruler edge, rippable waves pushing through. Caught a bunch right away during first light. Right around 7:00 however, the swell just started to fade to nothing. We're talking almost head high to ankle high in about a period of 20 minutes. Really strange. Struggled to get one in.
Swami's/Abb's	11/21/02 6:00 am - 8:30 am 12:00 pm - 1:30 pm	2 - 4'+ Swell started to pulse last night. Still lingering this morning but not seemingly as big as before dark according to the buoys. Still some pretty decent and super clean waves rolling through Swami's for a few round houses and hitties on the inside. Tide filled to much and started to really soften it up but still surfable when I left. Had to take advantage of this incredible weather we've been having so decided that before it broke would have to surf one of these afternoons on a lunch break. Mosied down to the Cliffs were it was Cabo hot and not a breath of wind. Abs inconsistent but super clean and rippable. Small mellow crowd. Some head high sets pushing through and some swinging wide on the medium tide going low. Caught a couple of these when I first paddled out. Stuck to the inside corner for the rest of the session and caught quite a few chest high rippable waves. Good times.
Reed St.	11/20/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	1 - 3' Swell even smaller than yesterday. Still super clean. Needed to get a little quota after not catching much yesterday. Some little right handers lining up for some little speed runs and end section hitties. Caught one that actually opened up real well for a few carves. This was the exception. Completely fizzled after the tide peaked. Have to wait till Friday. Supposedly more swell on the way.
Swami's	11/19/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	1 - 3' some + Swell dropped rapidly overnight. Still really clean. Watched it for awhile and shot the shit and finally decided to paddle out after seeing a few good sets. A few softies but the high tide and lack of swell pretty much shutting it down. Caught a few wide swingers that were round housable but it was dropping fast. The few that had more size and looking good were taken. Oh well, next swell.
Swami's	11/18/02 7:00 am - 9:00 am	2 - 3' some 4+ Swell finally showing after many false alarms all weekend. Looked like it was coming up Saturday night but Sunday ended up being dink and pathetic. Swell really started filling in this morning around 7:00. Tide a bit full but hitting the reef well and lining up for some lips and roundies and even managed to get a quick tuck. Some pretty fun waves with a very light crowd. Had a run in with a long boarder who basically took too high of line and couldn't turn around me or didn't want to and just plowed my shoulder luckily. Bastard then yells at me like it's my fault so I'm nice and go get his board to smooth things over because I know his board is heading for the rocks. Board pretty much comes away unscathed from the rip rap and the ass starts yelling at me some more so I'm apologizing telling him couldn't figure what the hell he was doing and realize why am I apologizing to this jack ass and tell him to fuck off. He then says I'm really lucky people are around or he would kick my punk ass. You got to realize I'm 5'11" and in real good shape and this guy is about 5'4" and fat. As you could imagine he was all bark and no bite. What a joker. Didn't let this faze me and paddled back out.
Scripps	11/15/02 6:00 am - 8:30 am	1 - 3' Lingering wind swell that had cleaned up overnight although pretty meager. Was ready to write off the session about a half hour into it the tide started to shift which created peaks up and down the beach. Not real big but whackable little lefts and rights. Pretty fun.
Swami's	11/14/02 7:00 am - 9:00 am	2 - 3'+ New west northwest wind swell. Tide a little high but not too many takers at first so paddled out. Waves a bit soft but round housable and a few lips here and there for cracking because the swell was pretty broken up. Tide dropped and seemed to slow it down a bit more. Still pretty fun.
Swami's	11/12/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 3'+ Still some insonsistent ground swell lingering around and really clean. Really beautful morning with Santana conditions. Hung out on the inside picking off the sets swinging wide. A bit soft but still pretty crankable. If we could only have these conditions with more swell...
Swami's	11/11/02 6:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 4'+ Clear and offshore. Still pretty warbly and mixed up. Surfed the inside the whole time pretty much with just a few knowledgeable heads. Lots of people out but the mixed swell was spreading them out all over the place. Caught some pretty fun rippable waves with my share of fizzlers. Ripped a real nice round house rebound on my wave in.
Swami's	11/10/02 6:00 am - 8:00 am	3 - 5'+ Rain pretty much gone, just a light northerly wind and scattered clouds. Still pretty junky. Crowd way down from yesterday but still pretty packed. Some pretty big waves still pushing through but the junky cross up kind of mucking it up. Still real surfable. Pretty much hung on the inside most of the session catching some good near head high corners. Some real lined up and rippable, while others just fizzling. Inside started shutting down and headed out toward the peak where I caught a nice set that reformed all the way through. Wasn't going to push my luck and went in on a good note.
Swami's	11/09/02 6:00 am - 8:00 am	3 - 6' with 8' + Still raining but the wind thankfully was just light and variable. Swell big and sloppy. Some pretty juicy sets pushing near double overhead on the outside. Super packed creating a battle atmosphere. Pretty much one of the only places holding form. Caught some insiders right off the bat and then made the mistake of trying to surf the peak. Too crowded and my board to small to compete with the guys on mini guns. Did manage to catch a couple of sets that were well overhead and rippable. Ended up back mid peak catching a few good ones. Saw some pretty gruesome bowls popping up here and there but not many takers. Not the biggest or best I've seen this place.
Swami's	11/08/02 6:00 am - 8:00 am	3 - 5'+ Raining and south east wind howling at dawn. Fortunately not affecting the lineup to much except for a little cross chop and a bit of back off. Tide about medium and going really high. Swell big enough for the tide and cranking some speed runs all the way through. A bit inconsistent but the crowd wasn't too bad. Sat about mid peak and caught a ton of good waves. Tide started really pushing in opening up the inside where I sat with a few heads catching shoulder high waves to ourselves while everyone battled at the peak. Real fun and still looking good when I left.
Newbreak	11/07/02 8:30 am - 12:30 pm	2 - 4' Checked Swami's at dawn and it was barely dong it and really crowded. Decided to head back down south to the Cliffs. Was a pretty good call with the swell showing much better down here. Only problem was tide was going real high and fast. Two guys out so I said what the hell and headed down there. Caught about three good waves. Then the tide really started filling in and everyone split. I decided to stick it out caught a few sets which pretty much were the only thing breaking on the real high tide and went in to the beach while it completely shutdown on peak high and sat for a half hour waiting for the tide to turn. I knew once the tide turned it would be good. I wasn't the only one with this idea. One other guy joined me on the beach and then a few more heads popped up and paddled out. Luckily it turned out to be a really nice day with temps at the cliffs probably in the mid seventies and not a breath of wind. After what seemed an eternity paddled back out just as the tide was sucking out enough for it to really turn on and enjoyed uncrowded glass with four other guys for about an hour and a half. Not real hollow but just a perfect wall for roundies and whacks. Pretty fun.
Swami's	11/01/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3'+ Pretty uninspiring today. West swell way down from yesterday. A few still trickling through making it worth while. Pretty soft but a few were opening up a bit for some roundies. Got a good one in and that's all I care about. Was going to check out "The Game" down at Cardiff Reef but didn't feel like waiting around an hour and a half for it to kick off.