surf

october 2002

» surf archives

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Swami's.	10/31/02 6:00 am - 8:30 am	2 - 6' Swell bigger but the consistency not improving. Super crowded. Every joker out. The regular crew cringes but what can you do? Patience is key. Better with a higher tide again. Caught some mid sections that were lining up all the way through very nicely. Sweet shape and a light offshore blowing. Some excellent waves breaking off the peak and pushing all the way through for ultimate speed runs. Too bad about 3 to 5 guys dropping in on these. Was scrounging mid peak until I fell into waiting for the biggies pushing through the outside and swinging wide and catching the tail end of these bad boys all the way onto the sand past the stairs. Caught a bunch of these until the tide shifted lower effectively shutting down the corner for some reason. Caught a few more good ones and went in. Good but that crowd... would call it excellent if there was some consistency.
Swami's.	10/30/02 6:00 am - 8:30 am	2 - 4' Swell is here but not very consistent at all. A lot of people taking a pass. Very deeply grounded and wrapping to the point of looking like a south swell. Super clean. Was cornering nicely with just a few heads on it. Caught some really nice whackable lined up waves, especially the ones swinging wide. Some guys obviously watching caught on to it and we were soon joined by about 5 more heads. Went in after awhile because the consistency was not supporting this cast. Still pretty fun.
Missouri St.	10/29/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	1 - 3' Hints of something to come. Very long period west swell popping up every once and awhile. Sand bars pretty shot everywhere so was more of a practice in dump section floaters. No one around so I had fun by myself.
Swami's	10/27/02 6:00 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3' Small west and south mixing with a little funky wind swell. Pretty soft at first on the medium tide but a little push got the far inside working for some fun little walls that had a few juicy sections. Choice was critical. OK.
Black's	10/25/02 8:30 am - 9:30 am	1 - 3' Pretty small and high tide. Lingering west swell still filtering in with a touch of south. A few walled out lefts at south peak until the tide really started coming up which created short rights off middle peak for a few whacks. Nothing great but at lest not flat.
Swami's	10/23/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3'+ Swell way down from yesterday but a few still sneaking through. Caught a couple sets off the peak because of the low crowd factor. a lot of guys taking a miss today. Wind up a bit from the north but not really affecting shape just keeping it cold. Cruised inside for while and got a few rippables and then went and waited and waited outside. Out of position on two sets and then finally got into postilion while three long boarders from a large newly arrived flotilla dropped in. Thankfully they pulled out and I was able to get a few lip cracks in to end the session.
Swami's	10/22/02 6:30 am - 9:00 am	2 - 5'+ Swell had a reboost overnight and cleaned up again. Looked iffy in the dark but once out there it was pretty damn good. Super clean and peeling. Had the polished glass look. Waves really rippable from the outside all the way to the inside. Whacks, roundies and the odd little dipper section. Surfed all over but ended up sticking to mid peak and the inside again. Many,many good waves. Hide tide has been the call on this swell, with what I believe having something to do with sand build up over the reef, creating connected sweetness. Hard to describe unless you're there but it's just such a good wave when it's like this.
Hermo/Swami's	10/21/02 7:30 am - 9:30 am 12:00 pm - 2:00 pm	2 - 4'+ Checked Swami's at dawn and it was packed out, smaller than the day before, and inconsistent. Must of been 50 people on it. Couldn't do it so headed south and checked the point. Some nice waves pushing through the Point and Hermo with Hermo being a lot better with a really high tide coming up. Paddled out to the point at first and caught a couple OK round housable ones but the tide was really softening it up and then a crowd arrived so paddled over to Hermo which was wedging pretty hard for some short powerful waves with some oval tubes. Mostly a hairball drop and a couple of whacks before fading into the channel. Couldn't find a tube myself. Wasn't completely satisfied so hit up Swami's again hoping a lower tide would help it out and at midday praying some people would eat or something. Not super packed and somewhat consistent but a little soft with an in between tide but pretty fun at first. Caught a couple off the peak and then a few inside that were pretty whackable. Tide shifted more and it junked up and completley slowed down. Weird. After school crowd started showing up and struggled to get a lined up face in.
Swami's	10/20/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 4'+ Super clean this morning with no wind and a straight west swell. Pretty good with plenty of power and face even on a pretty high tide. Not too crowded early on so plenty of waves to go around. Breaking more mid peak and some nice ones outside. Caught some pretty rippable waves mid peak all the way though where the sand has shifted around creating a tubey shore dump at the end on some. Stuck more and more inside where it was creating a beautiful wall after baking off the outside from too much tide. Finally the tide got too high so went in.
Reed St.	10/17/02 7:00 am - 8:30 am	1 - 2'+ Boy oh boy has it sucked. Barely rippling this morning. A few sets coming from what direction I couldn't determine but closing out nicely. Swell is pooh and the sandbars are shot. Four decent waves in an hour and a half isn't so hot.
Scripps	10/16/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	1 - 2' Checked PB at dawn. Had a little bit of size but pretty blown out and junky. South wind blowing so went to Scripps which was pretty glassy but smaller. Pretty weak. A few weak lefts and rights. Blah.
Chalcedony St.	10/14/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	1 - 3'+ South west pretty much fizzling while a little bit of west wind swell was helping out. Fun going high but the minute the tide turned it started dumping. Still some quick lefts for one turn maneuvers and some dumpy rights. No one else out and no wind so OK.
Bird Rock	10/13/02 7:30 am - 9:30 am	2 - 3'+ Wasn't even planning on surfing Sunday morning until I looked at th buoys and saw a respectable 1' at 16 seconds from 220º. The north end of PB picking it up really well so looked at Bird. Some tasty three footers pushing through so hit it up quick while the crowd was still somewhat light. Some fun rights and a few short lefts. Mostly round house type waves with a few steepening up for some whacks. Tide turned and the inconsistency set in big time. Add a near idiotic crowd and my patience wore thin quickly. Instead of freaking out I split.
Black's	10/11/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	1'+ Desperation surf to keep the skills honed. Just a trace of southern hemi showing up every five minutes or so. Very small and barely surfable. Caught two lined up lefts with one opening up and two short rights for close out whacks in about two hours. The rest was small closeouts. Just me a couple guys out and a really nice morning. One guy got a really nice tube on a set, so as you can see it wasn't totally flat. Need waves.
Swami's	10/02/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 3' Small west wind swell keeping it surfable even on the higher tide. A bit slow but some good round housable waves on the inside. Wasn't used to the westerly direction lineup and was a little out of position but figured it out after a half hour or so. Fun but nothing great.