surf

September 2005

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Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Scripp's	09/28/05 6:30 am - 7:30 am	2 - 3' Wind swell peaking. Beautiful conditions finally. Really feeling like fall with clear skies and light offshores. Some glassy little wedges up an down the beach. Pretty fun at first on the lower tide but as the tide filled in it was closing it out. OK.
Scripp's	09/27/05 6:30 am - 7:30 am	1 - 2' Some very small and scrappy wind swell in the water. Looked like it had some potential but the wind and the high tide were conspiring to junk it up and mush it out. Very few sections to bash and crowded to boot. Terrible.
OB Jetty	09/25/05 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 4' some 5' Southern hemi losing steam but there were still some sets coming through. Wind swell pretty much faded out but still in the mix. Tide not moving much at about 4 feet. Finally some half way decent wedges at the jetty. Still a lot of close outs but some waves were doing a respectable bounce now and then allowing for some open face carves and the odd tube. Basically just me and another guy doing laps around a couple of clueless logs. Pretty fun. As I came in a whole pack of guys were paddling out - timed it just right.
Swami's	09/24/05 6:30 am - 9:00 am	2 - 4' some 5' Southern hemi still running but way past its peak. Heard it was really good her last night. Lots of wind swell in the water hampering the southern hemi lines from being clean. Was mushing out considerably. Usually these higher tide had the inside doubling up but wasn't quite high enough for the far inside ledge. Still a few gems to be had but overall pretty soft.
Swami's	09/23/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	3 - 4' some 6'+ Wow back to back days of decent surf again. Some really long period southern hemi in the water. In my opinion probably the best southern hemi of the season for two reasons: 1) Under the surfline radar and 2) much more consistent then the "monster swell" of last week. As the tide was filling the swell seemed to really come on. A little slopey because of the southerly direction but if you picked one that hit the reef right it was almost reminiscent of winter time Swami's with some solid lines opening of for some big hits. Caught a few gems that were very crackable. Fun.
Swami's	09/22/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	3 - 4' some 6'+ A very pleasant surprise this morning with us finally getting some of the hurricane swell thats been in the water. Even though low period and steep angled, Swami's somehow pulls these swells in. My theory is island refraction from San Clemente. Anyhow, at dawn some sets going overhead on the low tide and opening up for some solid carves. As the tide started moving in the waves started softening up quite a bit but still fun. Not too bad.
Swami's	09/21/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	1 - 2' + Seemed to be still a lot of swell in the water but you couldn't tell it from the abysmal surf at dawn. Looks to be that most of the swell is passing most of San Diego county by. Swami's barely surfable but I held hope as the tide was going to fill in from a 0 at dawn to a 6.5 at noon. Some sets did manage to push through but very inconsistently. Add that with a fog wind chop and small wind swell and it was pretty terrible.
OB Jetty	09/20/05 12:00 pm - 2:00 pm	2 - 3' + Had to take my wife to out patient surgery in the morning so took the day off. Small southern hemi running with some wind swell and some slight tropical swell. Wind was just coming up as I got to the Jetty and the tide was coming off a 6 footer. Tide too high but once it pulled out some connections could be made on the inside but the bounce generally wasn't working so it was a matter of finding a line that wouldn't close out. Caught a few decent ones but nothing great with the wind tearing it up.
Swami's	09/19/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	1 - 3' + New southern hemi in the water with some tropical swell. Inconsistent but some super clean south lines wrapping in nicely over the reef for some super fast peelers. Not real carvable but some good down the line waves until softening up or dumping on the inside. OK.
Swami's	09/18/05 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 4' + Southern hemi on the down slide but still some energy pushing through. Some wind swell in the water too creating some really fun and rippable double ups on th inside. A light south east wind laying down for some nice glass. Pretty fun until the tide really filled in shutting it down.
Bird Rock	09/17/05 6:30 am - 10:30 am	3 - 6' some 8+ Swell and conditions had cleaned up nicely overnight. Some really nice lined up rights pushing through good for some whacks and some big round houses. some very deep water sets coming in about every 15-20 minutes with about 5 waves and solid. These were the gems but hard to nail down. Crowd got a little silly but stuck it out and became very manageable as the tide filled in and the sets moved closer onto the inside reef. Caught a beauty all the way through to Ziggy's which was the highlight of my session. Fun.
Bird Rock	09/16/05 6:00 am - 8:30 am	4 - 8' some + New long period south swell started hitting the night before. A classic New Zealander with a 220º direction. Swell was showing strong but unfortunately we had a few things going against us. Wind had been blowing for two days straight causing some serious bump on the water, small junky wind swell was mixed in, and a coastal eddy was whipping up some south winds, to produce some chunky and messy conditions. Access to South Bird still unavailable so had to paddle from Hanneman's. Hard to tell in the dark how big it was but once out there were some bomb sets. The key was getting a clean one. Some big cleanup sets but wind knocking them down. Was catching some big ugly bombs at first but then decided to sit a little inside as the tide was pushing up quick. Caught some nice right wedges that were opening up form some face to crack and some sections were throwing but unable to connect with a solid open tube. Tide was filling fast and slowing things down quite a bit but by then had to go to work. OK, but disappointing for all the swell in the water.
Scripp's	09/14/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	1 - 2'+ Just have been struggling to get something decent to surf. Today no exception. Looked decent at dawn but tide filling in quickly softened up the peaks and created a inside dump. Struggled to get a few decent ones to at least hit the end section. Poor.
Missouri St.	09/13/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	1 - 2'+ Looked kind of fun at dawn with a very small amount of wind swell mixing with a very small southern hemi and super glassy conditions. Some tasty little lefts at first but it seemed to get more dumpy as the tide was filling in so headed down to the pier which was a waste of time and crowded. Paddled back to Missouri and caught a few high tide peaks way inside. Poor.
Reed St.	09/12/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	1 - 2'+ Still some wind swell with a miniscule amount of southern hemi. A few fast little dump lefts and rights but overall just barely surfable but the crowd was exteremly light. Poor.
Scripp's	09/11/05 6:00 am - 8:30 am	1 - 3' Another little burst of wind swell but onshore winds kind of thrashing it. Went out anyhow because no one was having any part of it. Only took me a few waves to get the goonbas out. Tide started to fill in and the wind laid down. Unfortunately the swell was running out of steam as it progressively got smaller on the higher tide. Crowd started to reach ridiculous proportions by 7:30. Took a while to get one in but somehow I managed. Poor.
Black's	09/07/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	1 - 3' Even smaller today even though south swell is showing on the buoys. Wasn't deterred by the near snappage of my favorite board and hopped on my backup 6'2" whose claim to fame is a severely delaminated tail that feels like a sponge. Took a couple waves to get used to but its pretty much an identical shape. Waves fast to completely shutting down. I think the bars are close to toast. It's been a good run down here this summer but I think it's close to over. Nothing more frustrating than closed out Black's. The power and size is there but no form. Surfable at first on peak low with north peak lefts being the call, but tide filled in quickly and created dumpy waves and weird rips up and down the lineup. OK.
Black's	09/06/05 6:00 am - 7:30 am	2 - 3'+ South swell supposedly on the rise but really inconsistent. A tad of wind swell crossing it up but mostly just southern hemi lines.North peak had some fast and wedgy lefts. Some makeable while others shutting down on the bar. Looks as though the run of good bars down here might be over, but still some good rippable waves on the lower tides. Caught a few that really shut down on me in shallow water and bailed out on one that was a sand sucker. Hopped back on the board and noticed a weird texture on the rail. Oh, thats foam. Nearly snapped the nose off my board but luckily the stringer held. It was to late to worry about the foam sucking up water so paddled back out for a good one and caught my best wave of the day in - a left that was super smackable. Fun until the damage was done.
Del Mar 11th St.	09/05/05 8:00 am - 10:30 am	2 - 3' South swell on the decline but wind swell had boosted slightly. A little drained out at first making it dumpy but once the tide filled in 12th street had some rippable lefts on the far inside. Crowded at 11th but for some reason I had the inside at 12th all to myself pretty much for at least two hours. Some nice little wedges pushing through just asking to be smacked. Fun.
Del Mar 11th St.	09/04/05 9:00 am - 11:00 am	2 - 4' After a fruitless hour at Swami's I decided to hop out and find something halfway decent to surf. Ended up on a whim checking Del Mar. South swell was really filling in and added with a bit of wind swell there were peaks up and down the beach from 10th - 13th streets. Paddled out at 11th and caught some rippable lefts and also some sectiony rights. Seemed to get better as the tide filled in and the waves moved off the outside reefs to the inside sandbars and twisted into wedges. It was real fun, though a bit crowded. Wind came up and blew it out but was fun while it lasted.
Black's	09/03/05 6:00 am - 8:30 am	2 - 3'+ Mostly rising south swell with a mix of wind swell. Surfed north peak again where there were actually some decent rights and lefts popping up, although a bit on the junky side. Just three of us sharing waves when about an hour in the hordes arrived. Not only did about 20 guys paddle out to the shifty peaks of deep north peak they were completely clueless. Still managed pull down some decent ones but as the tide started filling in the good ones were becoming rarer. Kind of fun but that crowd...