surf

september 2006

» surf archives

Location Date/Time Conditions
Scripp's 09/30/06
6:00 am - 8:30 am
1 - 3' some + South swell just a fading memory with short period left overs and quite a bit of even shorter period wind swell. Some fast and racy little peaks popping up randomly up and down the beach with the rare chance of pulling out of a micro tube. Surfable but nothing great. Water is freezing.
Bird Rock 09/28/06
6:00 am - 7:00 am
3 - 4' some 5'+ Swell still showing strong but just a tad more inconsistent. Cleaner conditions with a lot less north wind on it but definitely some residual chop from yesterday's winds. Some good waves off the peak and a few through Ziggy's. CRowd a bit thicker but no problem pulling down the waves. Real fun again.
Bird Rock 09/27/06
6:00 am - 8:00 am
3 - 4' some 6+ Southern hemi swell really filled in overnight. Good direction for Bird at about 210º. North wind howling from the eddy but blowing sideshore so not really affecting the waves too bad. Tide rising with the swell building made for optimal conditions. Solid waves off the peak with some winding through Ziggy's. Plenty of waves early with just a bunch of long boards out of position while I was able to pretty much take what I wanted until the crowd filled in around 7:30. A pleasant surprise seeing that all the "wave prediction sites" didn't have this as a major swell event finally.
OB Jetty 09/26/06
6:00 am - 8:00 am
2 - 3' some 4+ A bit windy out of the north as an eddy has set up over the coast. New south swell in the water but looks to be heavily shadowed and inconsistent at this point. Light crowd at dawn but that lasted about 15 minutes as the new "in spot" in town had about 30 guys out. A couple OK ones off the bounce but soft and sectiony with a double peak shutting down most chances of hitting the inside. Bar is looking worse for wear as the south swells have pushed a ton of sand between the stub and the jetty with no defining form to it creating walled up closeouts. Managed to nail a few early but as the tide filled it became more crowded, softer and sectiony. OK.
Swami's 09/24/06
6:00 am - 9:00 am
2 - 4' South swell finally starting to fizzle but there were still some sets and some super clean conditions once again. Not as punchy as the day before but still some pretty fun waves with a lighter crowd. Tide finally shut it down around 9. Fun.
Swami's 09/23/06
6:00 am - 8:30 am
2 - 4'+ South swell just keeps on coming. More wind swell in the water again too. Conditions about as good as it gets with a light offshore and squeaky clean combo peaks. Swami's with these swell conditions and a rising tide is about as fun as it gets. Crowd is spread out and plenty of rippable waves to go around. Super fun.
Swami's 09/22/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
2 - 4' South swell still hanging in there but a bit more inconsistent. South wind throttling conditions but then again it keeps the crowd to a minimum. A bit soft with the wind on it but some waves feeling the inside corner of the reef well and cranking through the inside. Fun.
8th Street Del Mar 09/21/06
6:00 am -7:30 am
3 - 4' some 6' Still a solid amount of southern hemi in the water and what looked to be medium period north west wind swell. Looking a bit sectiony at dawn but tide was filing in fast to smooth it out. Mostly rights on the deep inside corner of the reef that would line up until fading in the big channel. A few bombs hitting the outside corner of the reef and lining up nicely too but these were harder to nail down. Some really nice lefts busting off also. As the tide filled in the lineup shifted further inside and started ledging off the inside boils. got two solid back to back cover ups on a couple of sick double ups. Fun.
Bird Rock 09/20/06
6:00 am - 8:00 am
3 - 4' some 6+ Swell filled in overnight nicely. Solid long period so headed to the Bird. Good choice. Just me and six of my long boarding pals at dawn. They waited for the sets way outside while I ate up the mid section and inside for about 45 minutes before anybody with a clue paddled out. Lots of jokers surfing this place these days. Pretty damn rippable and the best I've seen this place all year. Tide was filling rapidly and the sets were a bit wider but they were good if you could get in the right spot. Managed to pull one of these down that swung into Ziggy's and went in on a high note. Pretty good.
OB Jetty 09/19/06
6:00 am - 8:00 am
2- 4' some 5+ New swell not that big.Long period nature of the building swell not bouncing well at all plus all of southern San Diego trying to surf the jetty with some ugly vibes going down. Sat on the bounce all session and pulled down a few good ones but a lot of them breaking way too fast to make. OK but was expecting more.
OB Jetty 09/18/06
6:00 am - 7:00 am
2 - 3' some 4+ Super clean solo session for half hour and fun until tide started slowing it down. Bounce has been unreal the last two days. Quickly became crowded. Got a good one in and was satisfied with an hour.
OB Jetty 09/17/06
6:00 am - 8:30 am
2 - 4' some 5+ Thaught I'd give the jetty a go and hoping maybe the high tide, and it being Saturday morning, might have a small crowd. Super clean with a light offshore and uncrowded with just two other heads. Super rippable with it bouncing and wedging right off the jetty with the big ones barreling wide and the chest high ones having perfect faces to schwack. After about an hour the tide was filling in fast as did the crowd. Was almost karmic how a bunch of knuckle heads paddled out and sat on top of the four of us out and the waves almost totally shut down.
Swamis 09/16/06
6:00 am - 9:00 am
2 - 3' some 4+ Southern hemi not really that big but there was enough wind swell cross to make it really fun on the sets through the inside. Thing I like about these kid of days is that places like Ponto draws the crowd while Swami's is kind of an obscure south swell spot. Had a lot of fun drawing big roundies and getting the wide sets race tracking through the inside ledge. Fun.
OB Jetty 09/15/06
6:30 am - 8:00 am
New south swell and crowded. A bit too straight again. Seems to happen when the swell is filling in - the long periods are just too much for the fragile bar here right now. STill some good waves if you choose correctly off the bounce and once the tide filled in the corner had a few choice ones.
OB Jetty 09/14/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
2 - 4' Some new swell showing but not enough to really draw a crowd. Some fun ones off the jetty early until the tide got to high and shut it down.
OB Jetty 09/12/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
2 - 3' some 4+ Hanging on but dropping swell that was just a memory from the day before. Crowd light and still some fun ones rolling through even with a bit of south wind on it.
OB Jetty 09/11/06
6:00 am - 7:30 am
3 - 4' some 6' Figuring the jetty was showing well yesterday hit it up again at dawn. Don't know what exactly changed form the day before beside maybe the period of the swell dropping but the waves were insanely good. Barreling from wide of the jetty to the stub. No joke. Caught some incredible drain pipes that would warp and gurgle for a full tube and then let up for a nice crack and then barrel again heavy through the inside. Some serious shack time. Caught enough good waves that I went in after an hour and a half not wanting to push my luck. Sick.
OB Jetty 09/10/06
6:30 am - 10:30 am
2 - 5' some 6' Southern hemi still hanging in there. Stellar conditions in the morning with sheet glass. The most crowded I've ever surfed the jetty. There was easily 60 plus guys out trying to get a piece. Was fun off the bounce early and then the tide was marching in strong to another 6 footer around mid morning. Was struggling for awhile to get anything decent with lots of close outs and the choice waves going to a pack of goons on long boards, until I hit the corner and nabbed some high tide beauties refracting off the jetty and peeling from the middle of the bay to the stub. some killer waves just the crowd in a frothing frenzy reserved for something like epic Swamis or Lowers. Silly.
Swami's 09/09/06
6:30 am - 9:30 am
2 - 4 some 5' Southern hemi peaking. Some wind swell in the mix too. Pretty solid at first light with the corner dishing up some solid walls to crank on. Tide was filling in fast and slowing it down a bit until the inside ledge started working until the tide filled a bit too much. Fun while it lasted.
OB Jetty 09/08/06
6:00 am - 8:00 am
2 - 4' + Pretty clean but southern hemi swell just coming on too straight and tide not right. Some waves bouncing for better speed runs and a few lips but a lot of unmakable waves.
Scripp's 09/04/06
6:30 am - 9:30 am
2 - 3' some 4'+ Wind swell coming at it's apex. Scripps sucking it up well and with the high tide not too bad with mostly some lefts good for a few whacks here and there. A few rights lining up closer toward the pier. Crowd at a feverish pitch with the first waves over waist high seen in weeks.
Del Mar 11th 09/03/06
6:30 am - 8:30 am
1 - 2' some 3' Small but surfable wind swell lefts and the odd right off that short interval wind swell that has been running. Was pretty unsurfable for being so small.
Middles 09/02/06
6:30 am - 8:30 am
1 - 2' some 3' Getting desperate. Need to surf. Was hoping beyond hope the jetty was pulling in some of this scrappy wind swell. Not happening. Middles does, however look peaky and surfable. Looked key word here. The odd left but pretty miserable and super crowded.