surf
september 2001
| Location | Date/Time | Conditions |
| Swami's | 09/29/01 10:00 am - 1:00 pm |
2 - 4' Much better today. Had been waiting for a half way decent low tide afternoon like this for awhile. A bit mixed up from the windswell but enough groundswell underneath to keep the inside section steep and hitable. Tried out the new board for the first time. A bit looser than the old 6'6" swallow but seems to have a different and faster release point and not as much thrust. Caught some really good waves towrds the end of the session through the inside. Surfed for three hours for the first time in a long while. Enough said. |
| Swami's | 09/28/01 6:30 am - 7:30 am |
2 - 3'+ A bit better than the other day with a bit of push forcing the mushy groundswell to peak up a ltiile bit for a few roundies. So unmemorable I have nothing left to say. |
| Swami's | 09/26/01 6:30 am - 7:30 am |
1 - 2'+ Weak and dribbly. Looks llike I missed it the night before when a small north west ground swell and some wind swell connected together to form some size. Just small wind swell dribble and the odd ground swell set this morning. Real mushy on the medium to high tide. Luckily managed to scrape together a decent one in that actually had some face. Pathetic. |
| Ponto | 09/22/01 7:00 am - 9:00 am and 12:30 pm - 2:30 pm |
2 - 4'+ Chased the remainder of the swell pretty much into North County. Very inconsistent but this place was sucking up the sets. Was jonesing to surf Swami's but it was crap. Figured I had a good time at Ponto about a month ago so headed there. Funny it was kind of breaking like Black's the day before - either closed out or mush. Actually Black's and Ponto have a lot in common as far as wave shape. Don't get me wrong Blacks is a better wave there is just a lot of similarities on a south. After about an hour and a half of getting waves that were close to holding up the tide shifted enough to get some pretty decent lefts. Went in after about 5 nice lined up wackable lefts, so I was happy that this long string of swell ended on a good note. |
| Black's | 09/21/01 6:00 am - 7:30 am |
2 - 4'+ Another swell has filled in but I think it peaked last night. Inconsistent and sloppy with crap wind swell bumping it up and a stubborn north wind. Very pick and choose today. Lots of close outs and some mush burgers - just one of those frustrating days. Did manage to get a few good lefts but it was pretty mediocre. Sand bars are even more worked than usual. I'm starting to theorize that Blacks is only good for the first half of the summer and then sucks the second half however much swell is running through there. |
| Newbreak | 09/20/01 6:00 am - 7:30 |
2 - 3' South still hanging in there. Even more inconsistent today. Just a few heads out and really just sets to surf. Pretty soft but a the bigger ones had some carvable face. One guy who I see out there every time I'm there at dawn said that its been empty down here all summer. Shows the lack of good New Zealand swells this year. Not going to dwell on it since it's almost fall. |
| Swami's | 09/19/01 6:00 am - 7:30 am |
2 - 4'+ South still hanging in their but more south and more inconsistent. A bit more closed out because of the direction but once the tide filled in it started holding up better. It's funny how the magazines/internet sites say that most winter breaks that happen to be right hand point waves, don't break in the summer like Swami's, Newbreak, PB Point. Its just such a fallacy - they just don't break as good. Anyhow, some fun fast walls with a few sections opening up for the wack. |
| Swami's | 09/18/01 6:00 am - 7:30 |
3 - 5'+ Apparently blew it by not surfing yesterday. The north and the south filled in and was real good at Swami's the night before so the heads were saying. Still pretty dammed good on the upswing of the tide. Some extremely beefy sets powering through. Caught some beauties through mid peak to inside that were just insane. Days like this I quit while I'm ahead - don't want to ruin the good wave karma by being greedy especially when the crowd is living up to its famous nickname Swarmis. |
| Alisitos (K-58) | 09/16/01 7:00 am - 8:00 am and 10:30 am - 12:30 pm |
2 - 4' + Went out in the morning on the incoming. Really inconsistent but a few good ones pushing through. This lasts for about 20 minutes and the tide fills in quick and kills it. This place is really tide sensitive when small. Luckily after breakfast it started really turning on with a new swells filling in from both the southern hemi and the north west. The lefts in front of the hotel start firing for about two hours before the tide gets too low. Razor sharp left wedges just perfect for carving. Really fun. A great weekend but the border wait was three hours! Brutal and all in the name of national security. |
| Alisitos (K-58) | 09/15/01 7:00 am - 9:00 am and 12:30 pm - 2:30 pm |
2 - 3' Small but surfable lefts out in front of the K-58 campsite but the tide was rushing in and flattening it out quick. Managed to get a few nice lefts but waited for about 20 minutes to get a good one in. This place picks up swell like a magnet so it must of been really flat everywhere else. Decide to head out again when my friend Pablo arrives. The left in front of the hotel looks a bit better on the outgoing tide so we are all lured out again. Was good for about 20 minutes then just starts dumping. A few fast ones to be had and some close out barrels. Just nice to be out with a few friends in beautiful conditions. The water here is so clear. Place kind of reminds of Blacks. |
| Swami's | 09/11/01 6:00 am - 7:00 am |
2 - 3' Almost didn't go out because it was looking very inconsistent. Watched a few bowly sets through the inside and that lured me out. Caught some real nice double ups on the inside that were juicy and carvable. Actually got a head dipper on one. Tide started backing off a bit and somehow backed it off so went in. |
| Blacks | 09/10/01 6:00 am - 7:30 am |
2 - 4' Lumpy, bumpy and windy. Really wreaking havoc with the form. Combination leftover hurricane swell, new southern hemi, and crap wind swell. Either mushy or closed out. Did manage to sneak a few lefts that held up for a few wacks but overall pretty poor even with the size. |
| Swami's | 09/09/01 7:00 am - 9:00 am |
2 - 3' Same swell but not as consistent as yesterday. A very pesky southwest wind on it early, basically blowing it to mush. Did manage to find a few good ones when the crowd thinned out after the wind really started to tatter it. Pretty uninspiring, but luckily got a nice lined up one in. |
| Swami's | 09/08/01 8:30 am - 11:00 am |
2 - 3' & some 4+ Tropical Storm Henrietta set up a short period south west swell that was hitting San Diego OK. Drove into Cardiff and the Reef looked real good but only one problem - some contest going on. Would have surfed there for a change but moved on up to Swami's. Super crowded with longboards when I first got out. On souths like this the peak tends to shift onto to the south corner of the mid point and peaks really tightly having everyone bunch up. Started off slow just squeezing some mushy leftovers until the crowd thinned out and it got a bit better through the inside lining up kind of slopey faced for a lot of round houses. As the tide filled in it got much more consistent and the outside started working better and caught a bunch of nice round house type waves with a few steep sections. Super clean & glassy the whole time and looking to remain that way for the rest of the day. |
| Swami's | 09/04/01 6:00 am - 7:00 am |
1 - 3'+ A nice little surprise (for those of you who don't watch the buoys) west swell from the outer winds again today of about 13 seconds, so almost groundswell. Kiddie bowl not working at all but the outside to mid peak section working well on the sets. Caught a nice double up on my wave in that was incredibly rippable and pulled a real long roundhouse rebound at the end. Not bad. |
| Fairgrounds | 09/01/01 7:00 am - 9:00 am |
1 - 3' Leftover hurricane swell and a little tad of wind swell producing clean little waves off the point that were actually pretty rippable. Light offshore wind helping also. Size and consistency were diminishing as the seesion wore on but it was fun while it lasted. Water was really warm up here too despite the chilly morning. Everybody out in full suits so thought the water was cold. Was roasting in the full. Dumb asses. |
