surf

september 2002

» surf archives

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Swami's	09/28/02 6:30 am - 8:30 am	2 - 3'+ Real clean this morning with not a breath of wind. Small southern hemi from about 180-200º that looks like it would be much better an hour north or south. Still some sets sneaking through very inconsistently. Luckily this was keeping the crowd way down. Would have been unbearable if crowded. Surfed the peak at first for a few short whackable waves and then eventually ended up inside by myself for a few soft chest high peelers. Not flat but nothing great.
Bird Rock	09/28/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3' Yesterday was funky with wind swell and onshore winds mucking it up. Much cleaner today but the swell just barely pulsing. Got out at Bird around 6:30. Just a few guys out. Surfed inside of them on the peak and caught quite a few short but lined up waves. Pretty fun. Crowd go out of hand quickly however with about 15 guys out with 3 waves sets. Silly. Anyhow, caught a few more and went in.
P.B. Point	09/26/02 8:00 am - 9:30 am	2 - 3' New wind swell mixing with remnants of the south west. Not real consistent but no one out with the tide pushing in. Super toxic water on the inside of the cove where the brilliant City of San Diego was pushing rotten sea weed back into the lineup with a bulldozer. Idiots. Anyhow a few pretty whackable waves pushing through every five minutes or so. Nothing great but nice to surf by myself. A few heads started to come out so split.
Swami's	09/25/02 6:30 am - 9:30 am	2 - 4' some 5+ Super clean today with the same south west swell but no cross. First wave I got was a shack on the inside but the inside again today wasn't where it was happening with the fuller tide. The peak was the place to be with beautifully shaped waves with some sneaking all the way through on the medium tide. Some real speed runs today trying to make the connection and oh so carvable. Caught a ton of great waves until the tide really started doing a number on it around 9:00. Near epic while it lasted.
Swami's	09/24/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3' some 5+ New south swell has a lot of west in it. North County picking it up well. Lots of wind swell cross chop however mucking up what would be pristine conditions. Still some pretty fun waves off the peak and not too crowded. Inside was mush. Was sitting a bit inside everyone and was catching quite a few waves that were backing off for some nice open faces for some big whacks and roundies before running into mid peak and closing out. Pretty fun and looking like it was getting bette as I was leaving.
K-58 (Alisitos)	09/21/02 7:30 am - 9:00 am	1 - 2'+ Pretty small. Just a few blips out of the southern hemi and a tiny north west wind swell. A couple lefts and a few rights. Very disappointing. Nice conditions all day though...
Reed St.	09/18/02 7:30 am - 9:00 am	1 - 2' More lingering wind swell with a tad of tiny southern hemi. Real clean and glassy. A few little lefts and rights lining up for a few moves. Uninspiring once again.
Reed St.	09/17/02 7:00 am - 9:00 am	1 - 3' Sounds like I missed it yesterday. Just lingering and weak wind swell. A few short lefts and rights but pretty morning sick. One nice right and a few good lefts. Really uninspiring.
Missouri St.	09/15/02 9:30 am - 11:00 am	2 - 3' Consistent, sloppy wind swell running with no real form. Nice and glassy though when I first paddled out but after about 45 minutes the south wind kicked up, ruining what form there was. Caught one good left a couple decent rights. Surprised myself and pulled some crazy arcing reentry on my wave in.
Missouri St.	09/14/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	1 - 2' some 3' Pretty small and inconsistent out of the southwest. A few really zippy lefts popping up between Diamond and Missouri that were actually pretty rippable. Wind was really coming on so bailed out.
Black's	09/11/02 6:30 am - 8:00 am	2 - 3' some 4'+ After yesterday's debacle at Swami's decided to go where there would be swell for sure. Black's was sucking up the left over southern hemi well, although pretty inconsistently. A bit of north cross chop and a low tide not helping things out. Dumpy and crowded. Ended up at south peak with a few heads while every one and their mother surfing middle and north peak. A few rights at first but once the tide started filling in the lefts were popping up here and there for a quick full rail carve before closing out. Caught a nice right tube to close out bash and decided to go in on a high note.
Swami's	09/10/02 7:00 am - 9:00 am	2 - 3' some 4'+ What a difference a day makes. Way smaller and inconsistent. Contemplated on going somewhere else but I saw I few good ones roll through the inside to lure me out. Get out there and the inside is pretty soft and super inconsistent. End up surfing the peak most of the time getting a few nice short peaks with some open face and a nice bashable closeout sections. Super crowded and people dropping in. Highly annoying. Completely started to shut down with the rising tide. Ended up back inside just trying to get something in. Finally after about 20 minutes managed to nab a rippable 2 footer in. Major disappointment after yesterday.
Swami's	09/09/02 6:00 am - 9:00 am 12:00pm - 2:00 pm	3 - 6' some 8 Double session today. First in the morning the swell really started to come on with the tidal push. At first the tide was too low for the angle at Swami's causing it too close out a bit(this only happens on swells that are real south). Once the tide filled in it became really peaky and lined up and was real good. Still had to be a bit choosy but the ones focusing on the reef were classic down the line speed runs with nice sections to hit and round house. Could barely paddle by the time the tide was really high but it was still pretty darn good and breaking more off the peak. Decided to head back after working for a while and fueling up on a late breakfast. Tide dropping this time with a light ruffle but waves were definately more rippable then in the morning with mid peak showing all the way through inside. Caught three really good head high screamers that were just asking to be whacked. Caught a nice tube on the inside also. Best wave was the one in. Most of the sets were booming through the channel and closing out but a few rare nuggets had a shoulder. I managed to sneak one of these in. Incredible wave.
Bird Rock	09/08/02 10:00 am - 12:30 pm	2 - 5'+ Was really in a quandary about what to do. Knew the swell was showing pretty good up north but not filled in enough really for southern San Diego. Waited till mid morning, seeing I only had till about 1:00, so hit up Bird on max high tide and was hoping the swell would fill in. Well the swell was spotty but there were definitely some solid sets coming through especially on the final push of the tide. Amazingly uncrowded possibly due to the inconsistency and football is back on. Anyhow, surfed for about an hour with just four other guys. Caught some pretty nice chest to head high waves on the peak that were pretty lined up for some hits. Most were fizzling before Ziggy's and the odd one with the right angle was pushing all the way through. Inconsistency started to really become a problem as the tide was shifting out and the crowd started to filter in. Caught a few more good ones and went in.
Chalcedony St.	09/05/02 7:00 am - 8:30 am	1 - 3' Hernan swell really out the door. A lot smaller and weak today, coupled with a north wind and scattered showers, conditions were less than ideal. Still a few lefts coming through but the wind had knocked it down pretty good. A disappointment after yesterday.
Chalcedony St.	09/05/02 7:30 am - 9:30 am	2 - 4' Checked Bird hoping for a repeat performance but alas, it was not to happen. Inconsistent and packed. Conditions beautiful however with no wind and the sun out. Very tropical. Head down to PB and check the beach and it is about as close to firing as the place gets with peaks up and down the beach with absolutely flawless conditions. Whackable lefts and rights breaking all over the place with a pretty light crowd. Real fun.
Bird Rock	09/04/02 8:30 am - 11:30 am	3 - 6' Hernan finally dishing up the goods. Solid south southeast swell big enough to wrap into San Diego. Checked Swami's out and it seemed pretty surfable until I got out there. Really inconsistent but really clean. Could tell there was plenty of swell just needed the right place to pick it up. High tailed it out of there after a half an hour and hit up Bird. Swell hitting well, but like most hurricane swells not grounded real well, so breaking all over the place. Paddled out through the cove because the rocks were ultra slick. Anyhow, the direction was right on for Ziggy's with the swells swinging real wide past the main reef and unloading on the way inside (Ziggy's). I pretty much surfed it all by myself for about two hours with a few heads joining me here and there. Caught a ton of waves. Some real steep and carvable while others a little full and soft. Caught a couple of beuats right off the boils and lining up all the way through Ziggy's and just perfect. Really fun. Hope for a repeat tommorw.
Blacks's	09/01/02 7:00 am - 8:30 am	1 - 3' Very uninspiring today. A dribble of southern hemi mixed with a predominate wind swell from the hideous onshores we have been having in the afternoon. Dumpy peaks up and down the beach with no real organization. A few rights opening up and the rare left. Pretty much just close outs. Glassy and hot but water really cold in spots from up wellings.