surf

september 2004

» surf archives

Location	Date/Time	Conditions
Swami's	09/30/04 12:30 pm - 3:30 pm	2 - 4' Decent southern hemi energy in the water. Inconsistent but not too many people out. Surfed the corner with just a few heads. Luckily the wind never really got up and it stayed relatively smooth throughout the session until the end. Only downside tide pulling out. Usually want to surf the southern hemi's on the incoming but still some pretty crackable waves coming through. Riding my new 6'2" and was really getting the feel for it. Pretty drivey but really loose at the same time. Felt good. Fun waves.
Scripp's	09/27/04 6:30 am - 9:00 am	2 - 3'+ More northwest wind swell and a tad of southern hemi. South winds this morning so headed to Scripp's. Kind of inconsistent and crowded so, started out at north side where there was just one guy out and some slappable lefts. Tide started pushing in hard and the waves were getting mighty soft and closed out. Drifted toward the pier and caught a freak right hand wedge that fully barreled me. Couldn't believe it! Hunted for another one of those tubes for a half hour but no luck. Saw that south side of the pier was starting to come together with the really high tide so paddled over there and caught some fun rights a bit south of the pier. Pretty fun.
Thomas St.	09/27/04 7:00 am - 9:00 am	1 - 3' Some north west wind swell and a very small pulse of southern hemi keeping it surfable. Just a few long boarders out down the beach and had a small left all to myself for quite awhile that was offering up a few lips and some end sections. Tide filled in a bit more and some close out rights on offer. Nothing great but surfable compared to the flatness over the weekend.
Ponto	09/24/04 7:00 am - 9:00 am	2 - 4' New south southeast swell. Most of San Diego completely missing it but somehow Ponto sucking some of it up. Some carvable lefts coming through with a manageable crowd and light offshore conditions. Breaking more on the outside at first but as the tide started pushing hard the waves started to move on into the inside more and really lining up. Caught some pretty rippable lefts. Fun.
OB Jetty	09/23/04 6:30 am - 9:30 am	2 - 3' + Some good southern hemi sets on the push that were very lined up. A bit soft and bowly at the same time if that's possible. Caught a couple of good rippable waves at first but as the tide started pulling out and the crowd became thicker, the waves decided to shut down. A few decent small ones after that but fading badly. OK.
OB Jetty	09/22/04 6:30 am - 9:30 am	3 - 4' some 5+ Wind swell and southern hemi still hanging in there. Jetty seemed to be picking it up well. Some freight train wedges off the jetty making for some rippable waves with some bowls to be had. About a 50-50 closeout day but the ones holding up good. Heard I missed it yesterday. Crowd manageable at first but then got out of hand. By then it was getting really inconsistent anyhow. Fun.
Swami's	09/21/04 6:30 am - 9:30 am	2 - 4' Much cleaner today but the waves didn't seem as big. Swell extremely south so San Diego just getting fringe energy. Still some solid waves off the corner that were really rippable. Just had to be patient. Seemed like the swell had more juice to it early on and as the morning progressed it was starting to fade. Winds were a bit shifty from Santa Ana conditions but were not really a factor. Fun.
Swami's	09/20/04 6:30 am - 9:00 am	2 - 4' some + Wind swell even bigger today. Winds had calmed a bit but the surface was still pretty hacked up. New large southern hemi from 180º in the water but not seeing it to well because of the direction and all the slop. A few cross up double ups on the inside keeping things interesting until the tide started moving in and the southern hemi sets came on. By then it was just me and Ty out. Some very large sets out of the south were plowing through every ten to fifteen minutes or so. Managed to nab a few of these with one being well overhead and quite rippable. Fun stuff.
Swami's	09/19/04 7:00 am - 9:30 am	1 - 2' Tons of wind swell in the water from a strong onshore flow. Wind completely thrashing things apart but a few waves reforming on the inside with just two guys out. A few soft waves good for a couple cracks but then the crowd got thick with a bunch of long boarding goons for some god awful reason. All the goons finally went in and had a few nice far inside reforms all to myself. Pretty weak but surfable.
Ponto	09/18/04 7:00 am - 9:30 am	3 - 5' + South swell still hanging in there but looks as if it has turned more southerly. Swami's not doing it so me and Morgan head northward. Left off the north jetty at Ponto is pretty cracking. Breaking kind of like Abbs with it peaking in front of the jetty and spinning into an almost bay like channel. Some hollow lefts when we first paddled out that were cornering pretty hard so we were picking these off. As the tide came in it fattened up and started to connect better. Only problem was the crowd was a wee bit out of hand with a NSSA contest being held on the south side of the jetties and a hungry weekend pack. Still managed to pull down some pretty rippable lefts when the sets came through. Fun.
Swami's	09/17/04 6:30 am - 9:00 am	2 - 3' + South swell a bit more filled in. Still inconsistent. Definitely feeling the reef better today. Zipping along the inside and pretty crackable. Crowd a bit of a nuisance but knowledge pays off. A little bit of texture from a northwest breeze but not too much of a problem. Caught some good waves with some very hittable face. Fun.
Swami's	09/16/04 6:00 am - 9:00 am	2 - 3' + New south west in the water. Pretty steep angle so pretty inconsistent. Some fun ones off the corner when they came through. Was fun while the tide was low with some zippers through the inside. As the tide filled in the corner kind of shut down for a bit. Tide got higher and a 20 minute window opened up on the corner where there were some real beauts hitting the reef opening up for some big carves. Tide really started moving in and corner shut down. Had to catch a deep peak in that lined up nicely. Fun.
Swami's	09/15/04 6:30 am - 9:30 am	1 - 2' + Wind finally a light offshore to sideshore this morning. Unfortunately wind swell was backing off while the new southern hemi barely showing. Weak and crumbly and just barely surfable. A few little ones on the inside and a rare set on the outside but overall weak.
Scripp's	09/14/04 6:00 am - 7:30 am	2 - 4' Smaller, junkier and more sideshore today. Word was out and every kook and wanna be pro was at Scripps with the south winds still howling. Pretty terrible but paddled out anyhow seeing nowhere else would hold this wind. Caught a handful of mediocre close outs and a few slappity lefts but the wind swell was weak, dumpy, and chunky. Waited for something good to happen and it finally did - a nice right bowl popped up. Got completely shacked, popped out under the curtain, nailed the lip, and went in. That one wave worth the shit crowd and conditions.
Scripp's	09/13/04 6:00 am - 9:30 am	3 - 4' some + A new steep north wind swell hitting. A strong coastal eddy trashing conditions except for, you guessed it, Scripps and Shores, which were blowing side to offshore. Some pretty good right hand peaks on the medium low tide. Not too many people on it, but I was on top of conditions and the wind slop. Actually pretty clean with the offshores but form verging on closing out with sand bars pretty dredged out. Once the tide started pushing started to close out. Some good fast rights with a few sections opening up for the smack, but not too many lefts holding up at all. Crowd started getting thick as the tide really started filling in and the waves just started dumping. OK.
Missouri St.	09/07/04 7:00 am - 8:30 am	1 - 2' a rare + Howard left overs but still some nice looking little peaks in north PB. Just a few heads out so hit it up for a little bit. Some bowly little rights and a few open faced lefts. Nothing spectacular but surfable.
Swami's	09/06/04 6:30 am - 9:30 am	2 - 4' a rare + Hurricane Howard swell on the fade but some good waves on the main peak looking really fun. Weird how Swami's picks up these swells. Was pretty rippable as the tide dropped to a medium but as soon as the tide turned the swell really started losing steam and the crowd became unbearable. Only the peak breaking so big time jostling going on but did manage to sneak a few swingers. Fun but that crowd...
Alisitos (K-58)	09/05/04 7:00 am - 9:00 am	4 - 6'+ Hurricane Howard swell was just starting to show at sundown the night before. Booming all night and woke up to some angry looking beach break on the morning medium drop out. Luckily tide was filling in and completely smoothed it out. Some sick overhead lefts with some carvable face and some big bowls. Was a bit under gunned on my 6'2" but still plenty rippable and fun. Very good. Had to leave that morning and Charlie's wife was pretty ill. Calafia was looking real good. Bummed I couldn't stop and sample.
Alisitos (K-58)	09/04/04 10:00 am - 12:00 pm and 1:30 pm - 3:00 pm	3 - 4'+ Still a lot of wind swell in the water but mixing with what looks to be a bit of southern hemi. Projected hurricane swell nowhere in sight. Killer hot and glassy conditions. Super fun peaks on the north end of the beach with rippable rights and lefts. After getting my fill headed in and waited for the tide to peak to head out again. Still pretty fun but a bit of ruffle on the water. Mostly favoring the lefts but some good walling rights to be found too. Pretty fun day of surf.
Alisitos (K-58)	09/03/04 11:00 am - 1:00 pm and 3:30 pm - 4:30 pm	3 - 4'+ Stiff south winds greeted the early riser. Was heading to Mex and was hoping that it would at least be less windy down there. Pull up around 9:30 and south wind is strong but slightly side shore with a healthy north wind swell running. Waited for the tide to fill in a bit and it looked pretty surfable but of course the minute I paddled out it started to swing more onshore. A few fun lefts and the odd right. Got a screaming right in though. Second session wasn't as blown but tide had sucked out and it was pretty dumpy. Caught a couple decent ones but nothing great.
OB Jetty	09/02/04 6:30 am - 8:30 am	1 - 2'+ New very weak pulse of southern hemi. Bounce not happening and the wedge closing out. Surfed the corner pretty much by myself and got a couple nice lined up softies. Morgan made a guest appearence which was a surprise but always good to see him.